Old Oak Drafting Table Refinish

[Banchee24]

Howdy,
   I'm in the process of refinishing what I believe to be an old white oak drafting table. Using a random orbital sander, I started by taking the old stain and protective layer off with # 80 grit sandpaper. After this step I sanded with #150 grit sandpaper and finished with #220 grit.
   All seemed right with the world at this stage until I washed (water only) all of the surfaces I was going to stain to clean the sawdust off. After the wood dried, the surfaces are rough again as if I didn't sand at all. Before I washed the surfaces were as smooth as a baby's butt.
   I have two theories as to why this happened:
                1. The sanding process compacted sawdust between the grain lines making the wood seem smooth. The washing process washed the sawdust from between the grain lines making the surface rough again.
                        A. Possible Solution? Re-sand the surfaces with #220 grit and gently wipe with a dry cloth and apply stain and new protective finish???

                 2. There is possibly areas of dry-rot in this old wood. ????

   Because I am completely new to refinishing I am unaware of any sealer I can use between the sanding and staining step to fill in areas between the wood grain and then apply stain over the sealer. I was intending to use a Minwax oil based stain, but I'm not doing anything I here some feedback from you guys that know what your doing.

   Thanks for any sage advise you can offer.
           Jay
       Washington State

[jppierson]

When you stripped the finish and sanded you exposed new wood. Washing with water raised the grain. Hit it again with 220 or finer to remove the raised grain. Then use a tack cloth to remove the dust.

Oak is an open pored wood. You may want to do some research on filling the grain on the top of the drafting board in order to
get the smoothest surface possible prior to stain and finish. You might also ask for advice in the finishing section of this forum. When I was in college for Landscape Architecture we layed down some matting on the board to have a perfect surface.

[MikeBob]

When you wiped the wood with water you raised the grain, next time use mineral spirits or naphtha.
Also be careful with sanding to fine of a grit, you can burnish the wood and it wont take the stain well. Most oil based stains only recommend sanding to 150 grit.

[Bill Holt]

Welcome to the forum.

You really didn't do any thing "wrong" by washing the surface.  In fact, raising the grain is recommended by some experts.  As has been mentioned, 150 grit is usually recommended by the manufacture , the higher grit will result in a slightly lighted stain.  I frequently sand the end of boards to a higher grit so the end grain does not stain darker than the surface.

[Admiral]

  I frequently sand the end of boards to a higher grit so the end grain does not stain darker than the surface.

Great tip I learned a long time ago from a refinishing guy, and it works.

[Banchee24]

Thank you so much.

[Banchee24]

And I had a can of mineral spirits on hand and chose to wash with water.....perfect. Than gawd for forums. Thanks guys you all were very helpful.

[Banchee24]

I'm so happy I had the patience to wait for experienced woodworkers to respond or things could have been a lot worse. Seriously, thanks guys. I wanted this first try to come out good. You saved my bacon.

[MikeBob]

I'm so happy I had the patience to wait for experienced woodworkers to respond or things could have been a lot worse.  Seriously, thanks guys. I wanted this first try to come out good. You saved my bacon.

Get Bob Flexners book on finishing. It will become like a bible.
http://www.alibris.com/search/books/isbn...wAod8lMMwQ

[Steve N]

Welcome to the forum.

You really didn't do any thing "wrong" by washing the surface.  In fact, raising the grain is recommended by some experts.  As has been mentioned, 150 grit is usually recommended by the manufacture , the higher grit will result in a slightly lighted stain.  I frequently sand the end of boards to a higher grit so the end grain does not stain darker than the surface.

Bill told you what you need to know. The suggestion to raise the grain on purpose makes sense, it will do what yours did first time you get it wet. Think if it was your stain that got it wet, raised grain, and already stained is a real mess to clean up, and then expect anything like consistency across your board. End sanding to 320 on many woods will allow you to stain evenly on most wood. If you have some scrap of what you are using on one sand it to 320, on another sand it as you usually would, and on a third one sand as usual, then take H20 and mix it about 40% water, and 60% glue, and allow that to sink into the end grain, and resand, On the last one do it very much like the thinned glue, but use a 1 to 2# cut of shellac, sometimes it's sold as sanding sealer Allow that to soak in, and dry, then proceed to putting on your stain or dye.

Different woods tend to like different ways of doing the end grain, by trying what you are using against a few, you will start to see what works best with what