Forrest Blade Question

[jcredding]

Accidentally picked up the Woodworker II with #1 grind for box joints, when intended to get the standard WW2. Have not used the box joint blade and really don't need it for its stated purpose, so trying to decide whether to return and get what I intended or just stick with what I brought home. It's here and can't really think of a reason not to go with it, but thought I'd see if any opinions to the contrary.

Thanks,
John

[fredhargis]

I think the ATB will give you a smoother crosscut than that blade.That's the reason for the alternating tips (as I understand it). I thought the #1 grind was a special order, where did you "pick one up"? I've had one on my shopping list for years, and haven't got around to buying it. I suspect the ATB will be cheaper as well.

[Ray Newman]

jcredding and Fred Hargis: speaking from personal  experience, the ATB works better on cross-cuts.

I also have the #1 grind-flat top. Purchased it at my local (Seattle) Woodcraft. Seemed to be a stock item.

[jcredding]

Fred Harris - got it at Woodcraft and they had 2 of them on the shelf. Called them back and they didn't have the standard ATB, which is about $15 cheaper.

Thanks Ray - will have to think about this one.

[Rob Young]

WW2 with their standard grind is my go to blade on the tablesaw. I would switch.

Keep a good Freud rip on hand for breaking down stock and a decent xcut (forget whose because I don't use much) for plywood.

All std width.

[Steve N]

If you have plans to make a lot of box joints, and that blade is more than the WWII I would return it, and then for box joints I would purchase this blade set which makes excellent box joints, and is cheaper than any WW II I have ever seen. If you want a combo blade the WWII is pretty good, but no combo blade is as good as dedicated rip, cross, miter, plywood blades will be and changing a blade takes just slightly less time than setting width for a cut on your rip fence. Plus you can have the entire range for less than double the price of just a WWII. Perhaps something to consider?

[knotscott]

If the #1 grind is a flat top grind (FTG), its essentially a ripping blade with too many teeth to rip in thicker materials, and will have more tearout on crosscuts than an ATB, or ATB/R grind.  It's an expensive option for box joints.  I'd definitely return it if you can.  Actually, I agree with Steve....even the ATB version won't be as good as separate task specific blades.

[Alan S]

I suspect you will be better served by the regular grind WW2.  However the FTG version, while it can be used for box joints, is generally considered a joinery blade.  Yeung Chan describes it in his "Classic joints with power tools".

[jcredding]

Thanks to all - going to return and will probably look to the ATB for the time being and consider a set of specialty blades.

[nvrkjoyce]

I can tell you by my experience the WW II thin kerf, 48 tooth for crosscutting and rip is a piece of cr*p and was almost used as a frizbee when I got so disgusted with it. 
WW I , 40 tooth is fine.  
The WW II was a mistake.