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I used what ever rod I had on hand I even used an old concrete drill bit. I did do a lot of concrete drilling though so I had them. 3/8 or larger depending on what I had to move.
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Rebar or pins stuck into holes is also how precast catch basin lids are lifted. Two holes on each end, and you stick pins into them with chains or wire rope loops around them, up to (usually) the excavator bucket.
You could also use an actual anchor, and leave the bolt in it if/when you don't need or want the ring there, with neversieze on it so you can still get it out for reuse some years later.
Whatever way you go, keep the chain or wire rope close to the floor (on it is best) so there's little uplift or bending on the pin/anchor when pulling. Or use a piece of strip stock of adequate size, put a little bend in it, anchor it, and attach the shackle to the other end. And don't stand over or in line with it when pulling hard.
Tom
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I'm not adding a crack propagation site to a slab if I don't have to. The OP has not provided information to explain why rollers don't work. If the driveway has enough slope that one needs help getting it into the garage we would need to know. Also, if that is the case, I'd like to see how this is safety proofed. Losing the anchor point could be very dangerous.
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I would go with rollers also . While 1800 lbs sounds heavy it should move fairly easy if the floor is smooth. We moved transformers that weighed a lot more just with several guys pushing while on rollers. If you do need a anchor point, as was said keep the pull low to put the bolt in a shear rather than pulling it out. If concerned about bolt breaking or cable failure throw a blanket or tarp over it to keep it from flying. Roly
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I pushed an 800 pound safe across my shop by myself.
Anchor bolt, snatch block, cables and a car seems like asking for problems.
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I was thinking the same thing. Too many things in play make it easy to have something go wrong. I don't know how many tons some of the machines I have moved weighed but I can tell you this, a simple tool like this and black pipe made it happen most days.
![[Image: 00J0J_69ifH80HblB_600x450.jpg]](https://images.craigslist.org/00J0J_69ifH80HblB_600x450.jpg)
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(02-09-2017, 03:59 PM)Bob10 Wrote: I was thinking the same thing. Too many things in play make it easy to have something go wrong. I don't know how many tons some of the machines I have moved weighed but I can tell you this, a simple tool like this and black pipe made it happen most days.
This seems like a reasonable way.
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So.... you are bringing it in on maybe a car trailer or flatbed with ramps?
What's your plan of getting it off the trailer?
Steve
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If he is using ramps he should have blocking to support the ramps as flex or failure can ruin your whole day.
Phydeaux said "Loving your enemy and doing good for those that hurt you does not preclude killing them if they make that necessary."
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OK, time for some additional info. to aid understanding of the situation. This thing is 10' long, weighs 1620 lbs by itself and likely 1800 lbs on its skids, and is top heavy as all jointers are. The seller is a super nice guy and will put the monster on a skid of 4 x 4's. There will be a base of 8 footers, 2 about 45" apart and one half way in between. On top of them will be four or five 4' ones, cross wise. This will make a wide, stable base. The machine will be bolted to the cross pieces. The cross pieces at the ends will not be under the machine, so they will be easy for us to wrap a cable or chain around to pull it.
From the street it's uphill at least 4 ' over 50' so 2 old guys, even old guys in good shape, aren't going to be rolling it. Nor would I even think about a pallet jack. It's getting pulled with my car, directly and/or with the winch. I'm hoping I can find a trucker with a small enough truck or trailer so that he can back part or all the way up Ken's driveway; that would make for a nearly level pull and over a short distance. If the truck can't back up the driveway then my plan is to pull it off with my car and get it pointed in the right direction. From there I'll re-position my car to pull through a snatch block that will be connected to the anchor point(s) in the garage. If I keep the skid on the ground nothing bad happens if a cable, chain, or anchor point fails. If it's on rollers - if something goes wrong it goes very wrong.
I'm specifying the trucker has to have a trailer with ramps so that we can pull the machine off. It's their responsibility to make sure the ramps can handle the load and stay attached to their trailer.
I really like the simplicity of using a couple of rods as anchor points. I also like the Tapcons. I stopped at HD today and found they sell a two pack of 1/2" x 6" ones for less than $10. A couple of those holding a 2 x 6 down on the floor, with a big D-ring bolted to that seems like a good approach. Then I'd be able to lag my hand winch to the 2 x 6 for the final pull once it's in the garage if I can't get a clear sight line with my winch cable.
Thanks for the input.
John
