Installing Staircase Treads and Risers

[Tapper]

I'm rebuilding the primary staircase in our home. I've installed new stringers (3) that were cut on a CNC machine and are near perfect in alignment in all directions - no small job.

My question is this: When installing treads and risers, it seems there are two ways to do it. One, you can butt the tread up against the bottom of the next riser, glue the joint and then drive screws/nails through back of the bottom of the riser into the edge of the tread for additional strength. This method also allows you to cut each riser just a little short height-wise and bring the top up perfectly flush with the bottom of the next tread for a tight fit.

The other method is to install the tread all the way to the back of the stringer and then install the riser on top of the tread. Using this method it will be difficult to install any fasteners into the joint since I can't get to the back of the staircase since there is finished drywall installed on it.

What say the pros?

Thanks,

Doug

[toolmiser]

I'm not qualified to answer your question, consider this a bump, but I would suggest construction adhesive along with mechanical fasteners.  My stairway was done 17 years ago, and nothing close to a squeak.

[Tapper]

I welcome the opinions of all, so thank you for your suggestions. Nothing worse in the staircase world than squeaks!

Doug

[K. L. McReynolds]

My technique is to first line any surface on which a tread will rest with red rosin paper. That pretty much negates any squeaking.

Treads usually have about 1/2" overhang. If the stringers allow, I butt the tread against the riser portion of the stringer and install the riser on the tread. Reason?  Easier to clean dust/dirt and hides the seam better as the stairs are climbed. Risers are usually nailed with 18 gauge 2" brads and the holes filled after finishing to better match the color. I did do one stair with the risers behind the treads to eliminate nail holes along the bottom of the riser(the tread covered them). Top holes were almost hidden by the tread overhang.

I drill three countersunk holes per stringer in the treads from the top. If the treads are 1&1/8" thick, the countersunk depth is 1/2". I use #10 screws that are 2&1/2" long(usually deck screws).

With three stringers, that is nine screws per tread. Then install plugs in the screw holes.  It is easy to make plug grain match tread grain in oak and ash.

Never used glue or adhesive because those often created voids and later squeaks when the glue deteriorated.

[Stwood_]

Treads first, then fit and install the riser

[mike4244]

I have always installed the riser first. Then the tread is installed with subfloor adhesive and four 16d casing nails on each side , Three stringers, skip the nails in the middle stringer unless their is a bow in the tread.
The nails holes are drilled and nails hand driven. The back of the riser is nailed or screwed to the tread, I generally nail with 1-1/2" finish nails and no glue. A 15 ga. nail gun is used here. 3-1/2" finish nails are not possible with nail guns that's why i hand nail the treads. As mentioned in another post ,subfloor adhesive or a PL product will eliminate  squeaks.
mike

[Tapper]

Thanks to all who have responded thus far - I really appreciate your recommendations and suggestions. From your comments it seems that it is done both ways. So far I'm inclined to install the riser first and butt the tread up against it. Reason? It's the only way I can get fasteners in that joint and allows me a little margin when cutting the width (vertical height) of the riser board, so that the top of it can be brought up snug under the bottom of the tread above. Even though the stairs have finished drywall on the backside of the stringers I still have room to get a small drill in there to drive screws through the bottom of the riser and into back of the tread.

I'm also leaning towards using a construction type glue on the stringers for a little better grip on the treads and to hopefully help eliminate any potential squeaking. I'll also use the three counterbored screws per stringer method in securing the treads. My treads are white oak (rest of the staircase material is QSWO) so I'll match the plugs to the material.

However, I'm still open to more opinions and ideas.

Right now I'm working on prototype newel posts as well as building stem walls on both sides. I'm changing from the original design at the bottom where the balusters rested on the step treads. Now they will rest at an angle on the top of the stem wall trim.

Thanks,

Doug

[Turner52]

Have done hundreds of stairs over the last 40 years. Everyone had the riser installed first with the tread butting into it. Glued and nailed.