Radial arm saws
#11
Though asked before, I'm asking again: what is the best style of blade for a radial arm saw to: 1. Minimize climbing and 2. Minimize tearout & chipping? Also, when cutting plywood on a radial arm saw, should the good side be up or down?

Thanks in advance!
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#12
Well, here's my $.02. I like a 0 degree or negative hook blade, with the highest tooth count available. I still get some climbing on some thick stock, but nothing that isn't anticipated or controllable. As for cutting plywood, I think you want the good side up. The chipping, if any, will occur on the side that is down. Think of it this way; whichever side the teeth contact first, should be the good side.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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#13
Blade:  High tooth count (assuming you are doing only crosscuts).   I've got both a 60 and 80 tooth setup on my two saws.   Blade's teeth should have a negative hook angle.   Usually you'll find about a -5 degree negative hook.  Definitely stay away from any blade with a high positive hook angle, that is where you get the grabbing and pull through issues.  

All RAS cross cuts should be done with the good side up.   Any tearout is always on the bottom side.
“Poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of cheap price is forgotten”
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#14
I like the Freud LU91, it meets the negative hook criteria and has plenty of teeth. plus, it's fairly priced and can be had with out that gawd-awful red coating.
Laugh . Now, if you intend to rip on the RAS, this blade is awful...I don't rip, so it's perfect for me. Over at the Dewalt RAS forum, several of those guys rip, and they suggest the LU83, which has a 10° hook angle; to aggressive for me. The LU91 really has a smooth cut.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#15
Agree with the negative hook angle.     The plywood splintering occurs on the bottom side when cross cutting and on the top side when ripping.   As far as number of teeth, that depends on material thickness.   Roly
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#16
One factor not mentioned, to reduce climbing is to tighten the bearings to the ways of your RAS.  Over at the aforementioned DeWalt RAS forum, I believe the recommendation is needing to exert approx. 4 to 6 pounds of pull on the RAS handle to move the saw head (tested using a fish scale). I know when I received my MBF, the carriage bearings were so loose you could move the carriage up and down on the ways by hand. 

Paul
Paul
They were right, I SHOULDN'T have tried it at home!
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#17
Thanks for the advise. Should I then assume, that with a tablesaw, good side should be down? How about a circular saw-good side up?
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
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#18
Good side up on a table saw.  Good side down on a circular saw.  Picture the way the blade is spinning and where the teeth first make contact.  That is the good side.  Then the teeth cut through the material and emerge on the other side, that is where tear out is most likely to occur.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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#19
Thanks for the guidance! Though I have power tools, I've been more of a handtool guy, but I've been starting to use the machines again!
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com
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#20
Also get a thin kerf blade, that helps,too. 10" RAS are underpowered, they start climbing when the blade slows down. Wiring them 220 helps as well. I've used a DeWalt since '61.
A man of foolish pursuits
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