Drawer bit blowout
#9
I have been using this lock miter drawer bit from Rockler. On my table, with a split fence.

Lock miter bit

My drawers are plywood. I ran off a set of 1/2" thick drawers, and the cuts were clean. I ran into trouble with 3/4 ply though. The front and rear faces came out clean, but I got lots of shredding and blowout on the sides (which are run vertically). First I tried making a single pass, very, very slowly and lots of pressure against the fence. Then I tried doing it in two passes, first with a 1/4" spacer (initial cuts were very clean) and a final pass against the fence -- same issue. I managed to make a drawer out of it, but it looks like the aftermath of something terrible and wrong....
Uhoh

Advice?

Thanks all.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#10
your bit is just enough too high that it is tearing the veneer instead of cutting it 

that is my first thought anyway
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#11
(03-12-2017, 05:49 PM)JGrout Wrote: your bit is just enough too high that it is tearing the veneer instead of cutting it 

that is my first thought anyway

Interesting thought. I'll check it out!

Should have been been more specific about one thing -- the chipout is mostly on the inside face. Instead of a clean inside miter line, the inside face has lots of chips and divots.

Not sure if that confirms or changes your guess. Thought I'd mention it.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#12
Yes that changes what I said and it was not really a guess I have had the exact thing happen on the outside and that was the solution

So you are working what is likely the cheaper backer veneer 

The only thing I can suggest here is to determine the amount of the cut and scribe a sharp knife line at the juncture  to prevent the veneer from chipping

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#13
Makes sense. Thanks!
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#14
Just tried a test piece that I scored with my Tite-Mark. Worked great! Thanks.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
Reply
#15
Are you using a scrap block of wood to back that cut up, as it leaves your good stock? Plywood by nature is friable because of the multiple layers, as the bit exits it will fray solid wood, and just blow up ply, unless you back the cut up.


If you don't do back ups, you can also make small cuts to get to final thickness, especially with ply.

Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#16
Cool glad it worked
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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