Posts: 21,259
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
Seeing Bandits post and how he was doing them and got me to thinking about if they have been done and wondered how strong they were.
I also thought they may look nice to.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 2,774
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: W. of Rainier, E. of Orcas
Box and dovetail joints are versions of the same joint, mortise and tenon(?). I keep finding a progenitor of what I read as the parent of those joints, so never know. Selection of one or the the other for use is a matter of esthetics and convenience. Obviously, converting to a blind, or half-blind joint compounds the difficulty of fabrication, which can translate to kudos for the builder, or frustration.
Regarding strength, I would say the dovetails are strongest, only due to mechanical advantage. A full through joint is the strongest simply due to greater long grain to long grain surface area for gluing. I think the hype for dovetails strength--as we view them--is overblown. A sliding dovetail is probably the strongest joint; but we can't gloat over those since they were favorites of mass production; as are finger (box) joints.
Posts: 425
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2009
Arlin, take a look at this, starting at the 4:10 mark https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=relm...wzeONtOAFg
As Bruce says, there's not much difference between the dovetail and box joint, as the casual way they're made in the video pretty much confirms. Bear in mind that I will never rise to the level of skills displayed in this video series.
Posts: 2,840
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Western NY
Arlin, I was thinking the same thing. Use a mortise machine to make a bunch of evenly spaced mortises, then use the table saw to make the row of tenons. If one were to make them 1/2" deep in 3/4" stock, I would think there would be plenty of edge to edge gluing happening to make a strong joint.
You may get a stronger joint in the state of Colorado, but that conversation belongs in the basement
I tried not believing. That did not work, so now I just believe
Posts: 5,657
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Location: Centre County Pennsylvania
had to check to make sure I was still in handtools
seems like blind box joints would be marginally easier to make than blind dovetails, because you don't have to chop out the corners.
But if you are going to cheat on it, I like the shop made veneer method. Just make through box joint and glue a shop made veneer over it. FWW had that in a recent issue for blind dovetails.
Posts: 21,259
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
(03-13-2017, 04:13 PM)Cecil Wrote: Arlin, I was thinking the same thing. Use a mortise machine to make a bunch of evenly spaced mortises, then use the table saw to make the row of tenons. If one were to make them 1/2" deep in 3/4" stock, I would think there would be plenty of edge to edge gluing happening to make a strong joint.
You may get a stronger joint in the state of Colorado, but that conversation belongs in the basement
In bold is what I was thinking to.
I grew up in Evergreen Colorado and went into the Air Force in Denver but never did that Joint thing and never will.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 2,840
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Western NY
(03-13-2017, 05:44 PM)EricU Wrote: had to check to make sure I was still in handtools
Sorry. I got here from the "Welcome" page, and not the normal menu. I was not paying attention. Sorry
Arlin, I would use a brace to hog out the material, then use the mortise chisel, the one I use with the drill press, but with a mallet, to square up the small, individual mortises.
Hope that helps.
I tried not believing. That did not work, so now I just believe
Posts: 21,259
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
To me it is not how you get them out since there are as many ways as to how many people who do them. I also was not comparing the Dovetail to the Box joint but just if anyone seen or did a half blind box joint and if it was still a good rock solid joint after the glue was applied.
To me it would be easy to use a mortise gauge or marking gauge whatever it is called between the two of them and then being able to cut two of the boards at the same time to save well time but not the blind part.
On the blind dovetail or box joint I think the joint not only goes part way up the board but half way or three-fourth's of the way thru the thickness of the board also, correct?
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 2,840
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Western NY
In my opinion, with a 1/2 blind, one will see the fingers from the side, but not the front. In a full blind, one will not see the fingers. Basically it is a mortise and tennon, or rather a series of mortise and tennons.
I tried not believing. That did not work, so now I just believe
Posts: 4,034
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2010
Hmmm, got me to thinking......
Dangerous, I know....
After a certain box is in the clamps...I might have a bit of scrap wood laying about
and might give this a try out? 3/4" pine? Joined to another 3/4" pine? There IS one way I could try out......
Need to "hide the joint"? Maybe a "miter joint-like" thingy? Give me a couple days, though.....
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
|
