Question on Tray Construction for Small Boxes
#7
I'm working on a small box (approx. 9" x 12" x 3" tall) and want to add a till or tray that rides on some wall inserts.  The inserts are approximately half the height of the box and about 5/32" thick.  I had planned to make the trays out of 1/8" thick contrasting wood approximately 9" x 9" with a grid insert as separations.  I plan to make the bottom for the tray out of solid wood approximately 1/8" thick.  I'm stuck trying to make the best decision on how to put the bottom into the tray.  Can it simply be glued into a small rabbet in the tray walls or should a very small groove be cut into the sides to inset the bottom?  On one hand, I think that gluing them in place would be adequate since they will never hold anything heavy but I'm concerned about expansion contraction of that very thin bottom and so I'm thinking a groove would be better.  All the wood is very dry and stable so seasonal movement should be minimal.  Alternatively I guess another option would be to purchase some very thin plywood to use as the bottom and assume that could be glued in place with minimal chance of expansion.  Would the solid wood bottom need to be set in a groove or would gluing it in place work?  Or should I just locate some thin ply to serve as the bottom?  Thanks in advance.
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#8
If the bottom is quarter sawn wood then at that size it ought to be stable enough to treat like ply. Glue it all around, in fact I'd just glue the sides on top of the bottom. 

If the bottom is NOT quarter sawn wood then I have concluded it should be veneered over a stable substrate like MDF or ply and set into the sides. This might be a challenge at 1/8" total thickness. If you decide to use the non-QS bottom as a solid piece then floating it in a groove is the way to go. 

The above is based on my experiences. I will not be posting pictures of the boxes that, uh, helped me learn these lessons.

Summary: QS wood might work or use a stable (ply) bottom, or float the solid bottom in a groove.
Lumber Logs, domestic hardwoods at wholesale prices: http://www.woodfinder.com/listings/012869.php

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#9
For this I have had success with a ply bottom, and the sectioned areas I use QS thin strips that are center half lapped, see pic. I also would suggest rather than using cleats on the walls to make 2 trays, the bottom one doesn't even need a bottom, the actual bottom of the box acts like it's bottom. and sit the top one directly on top of the bottom tray, either full sized, or half sized so the box owner can just slide the top tray from side to side to see all the goodies inside. Alternating woods can be cool, or weird, you might want to look at multi, and then just 2 contrasting colors to the box itself.

[Image: dividers-kt1.jpg]
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GW
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#10
I prefer panels in grooves rather than gluing to the bottom.
Even when the wood doesn't require it, I prefer it.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#11
Well, it sure is stronger and perhaps longer lasting, but it does take up vertical space for a panel in groove. For an 1/8" thick panel you lose ~1/4" of height in a maybe 1 1/2" application (because you need a reasonabl amount of lip below the panel). There is a trade off and I have gone both ways.
Lumber Logs, domestic hardwoods at wholesale prices: http://www.woodfinder.com/listings/012869.php

Lumber Logs' blog: Follow the adventure
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#12
I have been just glueing mine on, but the ones I have been doing lately are a little smaller.
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