Shipping Power Tools
#10
Looking for some advice on how best to ship a home woodworking shop's power tools.  Need to pack up a bunch of typical woodworking power tools (jobsite table saw; 6" jointer; benchtop mortising machine; 10/20 wide belt sander, grinder, benchtop drill press; 12" planer, etc).  They will be transported about 1000 miles by a long-distance moving company.  The items will be stored (in a warehouse) for about 4 months, prior to delivery to a new home.  Seem to remember that most of the tools came in manufacturer's heavy-duty cardboard container boxes.  Of course, did not have room to store these "boxes" over the years.  I'm thinking of making some wooden "shipping crates" sized for each individual power tool.  Thinking of some 2X construction lumber and probably 1/2" plywood sidewalls/top/bottom.  Anyone have any advice/experience with such a task?  Most of the tools are fairly heavy (or I'm just "getting old", vs when I purchased most of them about 20 years ago).
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#11
I've moved cross country twice. Once by myself, and once with professional movers.
Will the tools be moved from truck to storage, then back in a truck for delivery? or into a POD type storage? How much will they be moved around, in the process?
Most of the tools listed are relatively light.

The first move-the one I did by myself, the only damage was a broken handle on the table crank, on the drill press-I remove anything sticking out-but missed that crank handle. Something fell against it and broke it-welded it back (cast steel), and it almost as good as new. I still have that DP, 30 years later.

2nd move-professional movers-load stayed in the truck-
The driver told me that he would load the truck, as he was responsible for any damage.
I did remove anything sticking out-blades, handwheels, handles and such, and tried to lower motors, and such to lowest point-to lessen the chances of tipping over, and prevent something falling against them, and breaking them.
I had a large RAS-took the blade off, lowered the motor onto a block of wood, on the table, again, lowered the weight, making it easier to handle.
pack all hardware in bag, and stow them safely.
I had a 50's vintage, cast iron top table saw, with solid extension wings-probably the heaviest thing. It was on wheels, rolled it up the ramp, strapped it in the truck, loaded everything around it, including household, half a Mayflower trailer, and the only damage was the top cover on the shopvac, after 2500 miles.
They used a lot of moving blankets, and I don't recall, but I don't think anything even got scratched.
On tool boxes, and storage cabinets, I put a piece of cardboard over the drawers, and either taped it on, or wrapped the whole cabinet with stretch wrap.
Smaller shop items were the worst-I thought I had gotten rid of anything I didn't want-but found 2 boxes of small wood scraps-each piece was individually wrapped by the professional packers-the day before the truck arrived.
Gotta remember, packers are paid by the amount of paper, and number of boxes they back.
One last comment-take a lot of pictures, just in case there is damage.

Hope this gets you started, anyway.
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#12
Further details/clarifications --
The move will be from existing home into moving van.  From moving van into a storage warehouse (and put into "shipping containers" for 4 months).  Loaded back onto moving van, and transported to new home, where they will be off loaded.  Movers "estimating guy" indicated that they really want the "benchtop tools packed up", and NOT left to be transported "as is" directly from the workshop into the van.
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#13
Consider the option of selling and re-buying used equipment at new located.
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#14
with that much handling, out of your control and supervision, crating probably is not a bad idea-
Consider using 1/2 on the bottoms, and maybe 2x2 and 1/4" plywood-or waferboard-whatever is cheap, locally.
(or using something heavier, that you can repurpose at the new shop)
You can screw or bolt the tool to the pallet, to make sure it doesn't slide around.
Make the crates like pallets-off the ground-so easier to get a hand truck under them.
one more thing-be sure to protect any tool surfaces likely to rust-paste wax, Boeshield, or whatever.
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#15
I've moved a couple times since January 2011 when I retired: Maryland to Niagara Falls, Ontario and in 2014 from Niagara Falls across the river to Lewiston, NY. I used U-haul equipment both times but had professional movers load and unload the trucks.  My tools are heavier than yours but I don't know how that factors into the equation.  I didn't crate anything.  Just moved them on the truck and tied them down.  I used some care when stacking things on top of them--filled up the space above them with light weight household goods like clothing and bedding, etc.  Among other stuff, there was a Unisaw, 8" jointer, 20" planer, 26" dual drum sander, floor model drill press and a 636X Grizzly bandsaw that weighs almost 700 pounds.  I had no problem--not so much as a scratch on anything.  Tools that are rugged enough for normal woodworking duty can easily withstand the mild stresses of moving.  I am guessing the movers have a preference for regular sized "packages" that are easy to stack rather than any concern about damage to the tools.  Ken
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#16
Use at least 1/2" for the base, perhaps go heavier, depending on the weight of the equipment.  Build the base as a separate element of the crate first and put skids on it in case a (f0rk ) lift is needed to move around.  Set the equipment in place before starting on the sides.  Bolt, band or otherwise fasten everything down to the base so that it doesn't move.  I would frame it with 2x4's, a flat frame around the base, with 2x4 posts in each corner and a frame around the top.  It won't add that much weight and will provide more stability to the structure and give you enough to attach the sheathing.  Enclose it in 1/4" or 3/8" OSB, whatever is cheap & available.  Bolt, band or otherwise fasten everything down to the base so that it doesn't move.

Leave a space between the machines and the sides of the crate.  That way of it gets bumped, it won't necessarily jolt the machine itself.    Secure any moving parts (fences adjustable tables, etc).  I would suggest that you remove them and fasten them directly to the base as well.  If that isn't practical, block & brace them somehow, while still on the machine.  Don't necessarily depend on the locking knobs to hold it in place.  You want to make sure not only there are no loose parts  clanging around, but you want to minimize vibration of any moving parts as well.

Many years ago I worked in the shipping department, building crates to ship millions of dollars worth of high tech inspection equipment to glass plants all over the world.  It's been quite a few years, but the advice above is the best of my recollection of some of the basics we employed.  They are still crating machines much the same way now as they did 30+ years ago, so the fundamentals should be pretty sound.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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#17
Thanks to everyone who has replied so far.  I think now I have enough information on how I should go about packaging the tools for the moving trip.  I will probably use mostly plywood for the top/bottom/sides of the crates, because I have a better chance of "re-purposing/using" it after the move for other projects, rather than cheaper wafer board, etc.
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#18
Bolt each piece of machinery down to a pallet; wrap with heavy cardboard or plastic wrap.
Wood is good. 
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