Wood stabilizer for spalted wood?

[Smartacus]

I've been looking at some really nice, spalted, curly maple slabs recently.  The spalted portion of the wood is soft & somewhat punky, but not totally "crumble in your hands" bad.  Not all of the slab is punky, most of it is solid and good to go.  If the punky parts were stabilized, it would yield incredible looking stock to work with.  What do you use to stabilize and harden up the softer, parts of spalted wood before working it? 
Is clear epoxy the answer?  Any suggestions on what has worked for you in the past?
Thanks,

[MikeBob]

On exterior window sills I have used MinWax wood hardener. Dont know if it give the look you may want.
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/main...d-hardener

[CLETUS]

https://www.turntex.com/

[Steve Altman]

You might try PolyAll 2000

[Steve N]

1st remove the wood from any moisture, and allow it to dry by stickering it under cover. I don't like punky wood in my shop, the only time I have had critters was following some punky wood. Outdoors under a piece of roofing metal and off the ground will allow plenty of air circulation. If it were me I'd let it sit several weeks, and if after that time it's firewood, well life is crazy like that. Spalt is one thing, punky is another. All those hardeners are glorified plastic resin. I like working with wood. YMMV.

[iublue]

Use thin CA glue.  Just be sure to do it outside and even then, have a good respirator.  It will boil and smoke but tt will penetrate fairly far and harden things right up.

If the wood is real punky, I follow up the thing CA with medium CA.

I have tried the wood hardener and it didn't seem to work nearly as well as the CA glue.

[Alan S]

Epoxy is a good choice, particularly if you need strength, but most epoxies are quite thick and don't soak in very much.  System Three Rotfix is a water-thin epoxy that soaks in well and then completely hardens without any solvent needing to evaporate.  If you have CA glue and only a small amount of wood to harden, use that.  But if you need to treat more stuff, this should be cheaper and probably stronger.

[url=https://www.systemthree.com/products/rotfix-epoxy-sealer][/url]

[chips ahoy]

Future liquid floor wax.It is acrylic and will soak right in.Keep applying until it won't take anymore.I have had good luck with it.

Mel

[Smartacus]

I appreciate all the feedback. 
These are kiln dried slabs about 8 feet long & over 2 feet wide, so they're too big for me to find an oven large enough to use the Cactus Juice.  Though Cactus Juice sounds like it's ideal.  Checking out a couple of the suggestions given, it seems you need to add filler after using them, my goal is to leave them natural looking and use clear finish, (so no wood filler) .   Though maybe using clear epoxy would solve that need for wood filler.. 
I've read that turners use CA glue to stabilize spalt in blanks they turn and had thought of that.  But I would need a lot of CA glue, thus why I asked for additional options.  The Rotfix sounds like it should work well and I'm going to check further into that. 
I've never heard of using the liquid floor wax before..  Would using liquid floor wax to stabilize some spots in the slab cause off coloring in the wood and/or prevent the wood finish from adhering in the treated areas? 
Again, thanks to all for the feedback and suggestions.

[chips ahoy]

you should have no issues with the floor wax altering the color.The wax is made by Johnson's.Applying finish also will not give you any problems.I have used it many times and have had no issues.Look for Johnson's liquid floor wax containing Future.Good luck.

Mel