Removing dried glue from Bessey clamps
#11
I just wanted to share something that I've learned with regard to getting glue off the bar on Bessey K clamps.
I purchased a product called De glue Goo.  It is made to dissolve any water based glue.  I had glue seep into the corrugated teeth on the bar and made them hard to operate.  I applied the product and let it sit about 30 minutes, and was able to scrape it off with a fingernail.  After all the buildup was removed, I took a file card and removed the small buildup in the teeth.  I am very happy with the results.
I now wax the bar with Minwax hoping to keep it from sticking again.
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#12
Never heard of itit but will try it. Course now what's the fix for for the worn out acme head on the handles. I have a couple that are so worn out I don't use them anymore.
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#13
I waxed the bars on some of my Bessy UniKalmps and they started slipping when In tightened them. I used Renaissance Wax, which has proved to be hard to remove. I've worked on them several times with various solvents and they have improved, but they still aren't performing as they should.
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#14
(04-16-2017, 03:28 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: I waxed the bars on some of my Bessy UniKalmps and they started slipping when In tightened them. I used Renaissance Wax, which has proved to be hard to remove. I've worked on them several times with various solvents and they have improved, but they still aren't performing as they should.

I was thinking about waxing mine.  Maybe wipe on a little light oil?

My problem is that I have epoxy on mine along with regular wood glue.  What a mess.
JB

"Give me an army of West Point graduates, I'll win a battle. Give me a handful of Texas Aggies and I'll win a war!"
--Gen. George S. Patton, Jr.


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#15
Thanks for the tip.  Sounds like handy stuff and I'll order some the next time I'm buying from someone who carries it (I see Rockler does).  As for glue on Bessey clamps, I always put Masking tape on the clamp bar where I expect squeeze out and have never had a problem.
Bob
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#16
Strong agree on BobW recommendation of piece of blue masking tape at each joint, keeps the glue off, never have to worry about it.  Ray Knight
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#17
I have a grinder with a wire wheel which works great for glue removal from the corrugated clamp bar surface.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#18
I use a plumbers torch to get it above 160*, and it starts to drip about then, and you can wipe it out of the teeth with toothbrush. Or wipe it with MS, and do a quick Flambe. Need to do that outdoors. For that thickness and grade of metal you would need it to be a lot hotter to soften the metal, so the only fatality is the glue. Just stay away from the grips.

Of course if you wax them really well before starting, or lay some brown paper over them before you glue up, they call that being proactive, probably witty even
Big Grin
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#19
[Image: 71e4Ukbe7hL._SY355_.jpg]
I use slipit on all of my clamps. It doesn't interfere with the grip and glue just pops right off. I also use it on all of my cast iron; decent rust protection and it makes everything slide nice and easy.
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#20
I've been using SlipIt for years on my CI surfaces and haven't had any problems with rust. It was originally recommended by Norm years ago. I will give it a try on my clamps.
George

if it ain't broke, you're not tryin'
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Red Green

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