Tooth setting on 6tpi hand saw question

[Tynyyn]

I picked up a 1870's split nut hand saw from Ebay and while I was de-rusting it I looked at the set of the teeth.  They seem to have too much set on it.  Now I am wondering if I should take the set out of the teeth before I begin to sharpen it or should I sharpen the saw and then take the set out of the saw and re-set it. 

Sounds confusing, I know.  But what makes me nervous is how old this saw is and  me not wanting to break a tooth off.  If I take the set out and put it back in that is bending the teeth twice.  If I leave the set alone, sharpen the saw, and then try to ease the set back into its proper position, then I will only be setting the teeth once.

What do you gurus say????

[Admiral]

As you noted, removing set mechanically risks breaking teeth.  On an old saw like that, my approach would be to joint it down (it likely needs significant jointing anyway) far enough to take away the aggressive set, then reshape the teeth, joint again lightly then sharpen and see how it cuts.  I often have to joint and reshape teeth several times on older saws that weren't maintained properly. After you test cut, you can add set if needed.  That's all I got, other saw doctors can give their thoughts, likely better than mine!  
  

EDIT:  PS: before you joint, mark on the plate with a sharpie the direction of how a few of the teeth are originally set, and when adding set go the same direction.

[Tynyyn]

I somehow knew you would chime in, Admiral. Thanks for your logical approach to this problem. I appreciate your response.

[bandit571]

I think you will find that 90% of all those older saws did have a LOT of set to them......more than what people today seem to think necessary.    Merely sharpen the teeth, and see how it works....

Thinking back then was a lot of set, to deal with the "green" wood in use.   Not a lot was Kiln dried to 10 % , anyway...

[Tynyyn]

Well, there was so much swale in the teeth that I had to joint the teeth. The set was completely removed because I had to cut so much of the teeth off in order to get the teeth level. Now I'll have to wait a week so that I can have a 7" slim taper file delivered to my house. I've got 6" slim tapers but they are for 5 and 5.5 tpi saws. Such is the way of my saw rehabbings.

I've found out that this saw is a George Bishop saw. There is a stamp mark barely visible on the saw, but it is recognizable. Using the Disstonian institute medallion section, I've narrowed the manufacture date to around 1850-1880. I'm erring on the side closer to 1850 because of the Warranted Superior eagle medallion being very similar to the 1850 Disston medallions.

Yea, sure Bishop and Disston medallions probably cannot be compared as equal, but since the Disstonian institute is the ONLY resource that I've been able to peruse, I will use those dates. If anybody has info on Bishop saws and how to date them, I'd be interested.

[Tynyyn]

This is why, now, the potential of tooth breakage is not a factor.  This pic was taken before I finally got the tips level.  On the handle end I had to file off 1/4" of the blade to get the dip out of the tooth line.  Now just waiting on a #7 slim taper file.

[Admiral]

Poke around WK Fine Tools site; here's a link to what you might have:

http://hus-saws1.wkfinetools.com/BishopG...-HS-01.asp

[bandit571]

Sometimes, in order to help one saw items a bit quicker, the old saws were "breasted"  into a slight curve, either outwards, or inwards, by the saw makers...FWIW  (too late, now.
.)

[Rob Young]

Sometimes, in order to help one saw items a bit quicker, the old saws were "breasted"  into a slight curve, either outwards, or inwards, by the saw makers...FWIW  (too late, now.
.)

Breasted saws work great!

Works with the natural "pivot" that happens as your arm swings and pushes the saw.  More or less, keeps the same angle of attack for the teeth.

[Tynyyn]

Yea. I understand about the breasting of the saws, but my saw had a couple of breasts so I opted to go for a straight line.

This is my saw sharpening station.  Hope it meets with approval.