Building a Miter Saw Station
#29
(04-24-2017, 12:59 PM)BloomingtonMike Wrote: I too used 3/4" melamine and the kreg sliding miter track kit plus a few extra pieces and adapted their table design to a data center server rack on its side. I added a fridge and two ball bearing cheapy tool boxes underneath.

 I like the designs with drop in tools that can also use the same table space (mortisers and pocket hole machines etc).

NICE SHOP MIKE! I'm totally jealous of your broad selection of really nice tools.

Hmmmm... a Fridge. I might could make that happen.
"Well, my time of not taking you seriously is coming to a middle."
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#30
Mike,

You mentioned that you have other plans for this top can you expand on what these other uses might be? I ask because we might understand what other limitations different suggestions would be, like how 1/4-20 T track is not heavy duty enough. I can't imagine that 1/4-20 track not being strong enough for most anything. On my drill press table I just used through bolt connections for the track. I plan to do the same on my workbench for hold downs.

Either way it is going to look awesome! I can tell you have a crystal clear image of it in your head already.

Carl
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#31
(04-24-2017, 10:04 PM)teetomterrific Wrote: But I WANT the butcher block top! 
Cool

In all seriousness, the Fastcap Best Fence is a great product but it would interfere with the other things I want to use the t-track for. If it was a production shop I would definitely consider it but as a hobby woodworker, I'm just not sold on it for my needs. 

Dust collection is definitely planned. I discussed that in detail in another reply. 

If I can fit a couple wall cabinets on either side of the dust hood' I probably will but the dust hood goes on the window wall between two of the windows so they may be very narrow cabinets.

Tom

Fair enough
Smile  If you want to use the butcher block top on both sides for other things, I can see that reasoning.
Make sure you post a picture of this station when you are done. Good luck ..
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#32
(04-24-2017, 12:07 PM)PaulJohnstone Wrote: I am going to suggest something different, of course, it is what I did.
Smile

Buy two sections of Fastcap Best Fence at 100 each, and one stop and the tape measure.
To the left (or right) of your mitre station, permanently fasten the fastcap extrusions (you can go up to 10 feet, I cut mine to slight larger than 8 foot capacity_. Now you have a repeatable system for cutting the same length that is wonderful. No need to put butcher block on the side with the fastcap stuff.
I put wall cabinets up to use that "wasted space" that is needed for the miter saw to be offset from the wall. Do whatever you want to the other side.
It is best to permanently fasten the miter saw to the table as well, so you do not have to keep readjusting.

Also, put dust collection in the hood surrounding the miter box.. Even if you can't use it right away.. plan ahead.

On the side that you don't put Fastcap stuff, you might want to use the Kreg Klamp Track so you can use their bench clamps.
Or put dogholes in , so you can use a multitude of workbench stuff.. If you use the left side with the fastcap stuff, there is really no need to have a miter saw fence the right side .. I have never seen the need to have one.

I have built a number of miter saw stations and the one that I have been using for the past 10 years is pretty close to what Paul describes.  Having a built-in measuring tape and stop system is one of the main reasons I love my setup.  My fence is to the left of the saw, I have never seen th need for a fence on the right.

Since you anticipate using the setup for other purposes as well, I would suggest a fixed fence on one side of the saw and an adjustable fence on the other side, I would also set the adjustable fence back from the plane of the saw and fixed fence.
Macky

The wheel of Life is like a toilet-paper roll, the closer to the end you get, the faster it goes around.

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#33
I have the same saw and it does require a deep cabinet. I actually have mine on a sliding top so I can stow it when not in use. If you don't have issues with space, no reason to do that. The fences do not need to be movable front/rear, so I'd make permanent mount points and skip the track. I'd make then flush so you can remove the fences and use the top for other things (Like storing junk).
Smile

I made my station with rolling cabinets underneath instead of permanent cabinets. I can roll them out and use them as additional assembly tables if I wish. Of course, I had to make them as opposed to purchase them.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets. 

"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
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#34
(04-26-2017, 02:35 AM)McApple Wrote: I have built a number of miter saw stations and the one that I have been using for the past 10 years is pretty close to what Paul describes.  Having a built-in measuring tape and stop system is one of the main reasons I love my setup.  My fence is to the left of the saw, I have never seen th need for a fence on the right.

Since you anticipate using the setup for other purposes as well, I would suggest a fixed fence on one side of the saw and an adjustable fence on the other side, I would also set the adjustable fence back from the plane of the saw and fixed fence.

Yea , I wish I had done the Fastcap system (on top of my homemade "stand") a long time ago. Like when it first came out.
I also went through several iterations of a homemade setups, similar to Norm's and my own attempts..
I think the OP could leave the right countertop as he designed it for his miscellaneous purposes.
Still plenty of room on the fastcap side to put junk on it, instead of putting it away lol
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#35
Well, I'm listening to all the suggestions on my bench tops and fences. I'm considering some of the suggestions. I'll have to commit something once I have cabinets and tops on hand and assembled.

Today I received the 8-gallon drum I plan to use as an under the miter saw cabinet dust separator along with the Rockler Dust Right® 4'' Dust Separator Components I ordered a couple weeks ago and the Big Gulp I've had for 5 years or so. I'll order the cabinets and tops soon.

[Image: dustseparatorparts.jpg]
"Well, my time of not taking you seriously is coming to a middle."
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#36
I used those Rockler 4" hose fittings on a 55 gallon drum. The air comes in from a rigid 2" central vac pipe, goes to 4" hose, then that Rockler fitting aims the air in a cyclone around the 55 gallon drum. The outlet is a 2" rigid central vac line, to a 2 1/2" hose, to a shop vac. Not much makes it beyond the 55 gallon drum, and I only need to dump it once a month.
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