Engineer Square needed
  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
Check Ebay.  You can get some pretty fine quality combo (protractor, center finder and square) squares there.  Name brand ones too i.e: Starrett, Brown & Sharpe.
But, what Joe Grout said and a plastic triangle will fix most of your problems.

  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
I'd say welcome, but your join date says you've been around for a while, but welcome to posting maybe Winkgrin

I've had really good luck with everything I have gotten from PEC tools Generally they tell you the accuracy of what you are getting, so they have the respect of tool guys, but at a lower price point than Starrett, and Brown n Sharpe. Seems like Harry J Epstein has the best prices on the PEC tools.

If they aren't what you are looking for the I Guaging already mentioned are a nice tool also.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
I keep a pair of inexpensive engineer squares just to check my combo squares as well as a few other uses. I recall mine came from Grizzly, but that was quite a few years ago; so I guess I think that set will do just fine for you. One other pitch, Steve N linked the Epstein site, they have really good stuff and great some adjustable squares (take your pick) from them would be a good thing.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
Those squares are plenty good enough as they come from Grizzly. Be aware though, that if you drop one they may not Stay square. I have no idea of the rigidity of the blade holder connection, but I would keep at least one in a safe place (unused) just to check the other squares against occasionally. Nothing worse than finding out you have made a bunch of marks and cuts and then finding out the measurement system you used was flawed.

I miss nested quotes..........
  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
Any decent square will specify the tolerance, usually in thousandths of inch / inch. Grizzly generally has mediocre quality equipment and the lack of tolerance information should be an indicator of this.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
WOW everyone thanks for the quick and numerous responses and opinions and I think i will give the set a try.   Seems like a reasonable entry unit and can try this among some of the other suggestion to better figure out where this issue is presenting itself.  

Thanks again.
  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
These are also one of the Harbor Freight "gems".
They told me anybody could do it, but I showed them.
  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
I have that same set of engineer squares for about 15 years. Good quality, accurate , price is right.
As others said a bevel square is a good tool to transfer angles. The angle can be gotten many ways, plastic protractor, printed paper from a website, or I use the miter saw set to the angle and then adjust a bevel square to it.
  Re: Engineer Square needed by bline22 (Hello, Basic/new ...)
I’d go with the double squares from PEC. I don’t remember the site but you can get them slightly blemished for very good prices. I got a 4” and a 6” for less than $40. Aside from that, I like my Milwaukee speed square and the plastic triangles.
  Re: RE: Engineer Square needed by JGrout (The way your questio...)
(04-24-2017, 02:38 PM)JGrout Wrote: The way your questions are posed it appears you have a non perpendicular blade which the squares shown would assist in for that. 

you also state you think the fence is out which is an entirely different issue. To rectify that you need to determine that the saw carriage is parallel to the table saw slots then you can reset your fence parallel to the slot for a parallel cut. 

Several of us here use a .05 brass screw into the end grain of a scrap of wood attached to the miter gauge (clamped) to determine the error ( if any ) of the top to the blade. by setting the wood and the screw next to a tooth at the start of the cut then rotating the same tooth to the back and sliding the stick still clamped to the miter gauge to the back to figure out the amount the blade is not aligned with the miter slot. 

This is a perfectly satisfactory way to accomplish the task and it costs about .05 to do. The hard part s not as simple on a lot of cheaper saws, but you can accomplish it most of the time. 

To your last question a bevel gauge and a protractor will get you the angles you need to build a chair

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