Cabinet Painting - revisited

[cams2705]

All,

I posted a few weeks back about painting Pantry/Laundry/Bathroom cabinets I'm building for my house.  My plan after doing some research was to use Sherwin-Williams Pro Classic water based acrylic-alkyd.  I wanted to spray it so I did research and found some information from some folks that would involve thinning it enough to spray it through HVLP.  I was then going to spray a top coat of poly-crylic in a semi-gloss.

I really want this to work right and not risk ruining the cabinets or have to sand them totally down and start over if something goes south.

I now found that a lot of people have had success spraying General Finishes Milk Paint (which is actually an acrylic paint and not true milk paint).  It comes in a limited amount of colors, but you can easily mix them to get a custom color.  I think the best thing about it is the product is already thin enough to spray with HVLP.

What is the opinion here to use the GF primer (2 coats), then 3 coats of the GF Milk Paint color, followed by a top coat of High Performance (water based ploy-crylic)?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Chuck

[Rob Young]

All,

I posted a few weeks back about painting Pantry/Laundry/Bathroom cabinets I'm building for my house.  My plan after doing some research was to use Sherwin-Williams Pro Classic water based acrylic-alkyd.  I wanted to spray it so I did research and found some information from some folks that would involve thinning it enough to spray it through HVLP.  I was then going to spray a top coat of poly-crylic in a semi-gloss.

I really want this to work right and not risk ruining the cabinets or have to sand them totally down and start over if something goes south.

I now found that a lot of people have had success spraying General Finishes Milk Paint (which is actually an acrylic paint and not true milk paint).  It comes in a limited amount of colors, but you can easily mix them to get a custom color.  I think the best thing about it is the product is already thin enough to spray with HVLP.

What is the opinion here to use the GF primer (2 coats), then 3 coats of the GF Milk Paint color, followed by a top coat of High Performance (water based ploy-crylic)?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Chuck

I have found GF Milk Paint to work very well through my 4-stage HVLP using a 1.8mm tip.  I don't have my notes here, but as I recall, it required either no thinning or just a few drops to fall in the middle of the range recommended by my rig's instructions when using a 1.8mm N/N/aircap set.

I have sprayed it over bare wood and it took two coats for coverage.  But over Zinser BIN (the shellac based stuff), one coat gave me coverage.  But I still sprayed two coats just be be safe.  The BIN primer is great stuff, covers well, sands well and will help you find the last few surface defects that need correcting before color coats.  

GF HP is the one they recommend as a topcoat over their milk paint.  I have not used it.  I have used Minwax WB Poly (cheap and cheerful but not as durrable) and a Varathene produce.  In both cases, not because I thought they were better products, but because it was what I had on hand and I didn't feel I needed to upgrade based on the intended project use.  Both have been just fine as topcoats in light duty applications.

[jteneyck]

GF's Milk Paint has nearly the same viscosity as ProClassic.  GF's data sheet lists it as 1000 - 3000 cPs, which is 250 seconds or more #4 Ford cup.  You aren't going to spray that w/o thinning unless you have a pressure feed gun or a huge N/N set (and then it will look poor).  I can't remember what gun you said you have, but if you want to spray nearly any paint with an HVLP gun, it needs to be pressurized.  I'm sure there are exceptions and the one I can think of is ML Campbell's White Aqualente, which has a viscosity of around 35 seconds, the same as BIN shellac based white primer BTW. 

If you intend to spray paint very often, step up to a pressurized gun.  It sprays everything, not just paint, so much better than a gravity or siphon feed gun.  

John

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

My first thought is......wow, that's a lot of coats! I think you can accomplish your goals and end result quicker than 6 coats. I've never used GF milk paint but from what I've read it seems very similar to an acrylic enamel BM or SW paint. Probably twice as expensive though. I have used GF HP over BM Advance. I can't say if it helped for sure but it does seem a bit "slicker" to the touch. There were rubbed though areas and corners on these legs exposing raw wood so I shot the clear over the paint. Quick and easy but I will say keeping track of a clear over white was a bit more challenging for me. I stayed as light as I could with the coverage so I wouldn't have any saggy surprises. It worked well for me. I'm still out on the six total coats.

[cams2705]

John ... I see that the viscosity is as high as the SW Pro Classic, but GF is the only product that 1) has a recommendation for thinning their product with water or they make an extender and 2) has a YouTube video on their website showing it being sprayed with the Earlex 5500.  I think that convinces me that it is 100% possible as opposed to buying the expensive SW product and having experimentation that leads to failure.

KC Fireslayer ... My proposed finish schedule is based on spraying each coat light enough to just provide coverage.  I want to get two thin coats of primer with light sanding between each .  The same as with the color only adding an additional coat to prevent possible wearing through of the paint.  The top coats are to actually apply a sheen to the matte product while protecting toe color coats and allowing enough to lay down without the threat of sanding through.  Since I'm using 2 different colors (1 for pantry/laundry and another for the bathrooms), I shouldn't need more than a quart of each product.

[Mr Eddie]

Chuck,
This is not a specific response to your questions but if you look back thru some of John's posts on spraying paint he has some great information and tips.  His cabinets always look top notch and the finishing schedule, iirc, is pretty straight forward with just a couple of products.  I have some laundry room cabinets to do this summer and I'm going to use John's methods - hopefully with similar results.  Just a suggestion.

Lonnie

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

Cam,

I see your point on the three light coats. You also mention you're using a bleeder gun. I have an Earlex as well and it's the first bleeder gun I've ever used. One thing I noticed was the constant warmish air feed really sped up the drying of the applied finish. I found myself having to put on a heavier thickness so I could get some "flow out" and smoothness that occurs after application. I imagine you have used the Earlex already and if so this is probably something you already know. Anyhow, don't be afraid to aim for a thicker or recommended wet mil thickness. Your finish will come out smoother in most cases because it will stay wet longer and smooth into uniformity. Your last coat will be the most important. I've found you will get the best grip and "hang time" from your first coat over primer. Following coats will slide a little easier on verticals. My goal isn't to finish the finish after my last coat. Of course, I'd say do a trial run on your schedule and see how it works for you. 2-3 more hours is a small sacrifice after building the piece and buying the materials. I spray my toughest areas horizontal when possible. A friend of mine thins BM Advance 10% and uses the needle the 5500 came with (2.0?). He's very pleased with his results. Hope this helps.

[Cooler]

All,


What is the opinion here to use the GF primer (2 coats), then 3 coats of the GF Milk Paint color, followed by a top coat of High Performance (water based ploy-crylic)?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Chuck

I applied GF milk paint (black) and top coated with clear acrylic.  I applied the milk paint with a foam brush as per their video.  There is nothing quite like it.  I brushed out two coats and when dry it gives the appearance of being a perfectly sprayed finish.  No runs, no bubbles, no nothing.  Just perfect.  

It is pretty expensive and I brought a sample to Sherwin Williams and asked them to match it with their best paint for color and sheen (matte).  Sherwin Williams has a computer that did a fabulous job in matching the gloss and color--almost perfect in both regards.  But as for application it was not nearly as good as the GF milk paint.  So I am sticking with the  milk paint.  

I wanted to top coat with a matte finish but the samples I made up just looked chalky and muddy, so I did it it in semi-gloss.  Looks great.

Five stars for the GF milk paint (as long as you top coat it).  The milk paint shows scuffs very quickly.