Posts: 1,792
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Would think want to clear rotten wood away to good wood and see what you need to do next. Might be able to just cut a wood patch to fill versus filling with something round. Little filling and sanding of bondo or epoxy and ready to paint.
Bill
Posts: 20,909
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2003
Durham Rock Hard is easy to work, shape and paint.
Gary
Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
Posts: 1,622
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2008
05-08-2017, 03:09 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-08-2017, 03:11 AM by Lynden.)
(05-07-2017, 06:58 PM)Gary G™ Wrote: Durham Rock Hard is easy to work, shape and paint.
I never use Durham's outside where it is exposed to the weather. Two-part epoxy is a better material to use. The following is from the Durham's website.
CAN I USE DURHAM'S FOR REPAIRS OUTDOORS?
Durham's can be used outdoors, but keep these things in mind...
Durham's can be used outdoors and will withstand outdoor weather, but it must be kept painted. Water putty is not waterproof and will absorb any moisture it is exposed to and the paint will peel. So if you see peeling, you must find the source of the moisture and stop it from gettting into the putty. Durham's also must not be used in structural, or weight-bearing, applications.
Durham's does not absorb a stain, so the patch must be painted and not stained.
Durham's is intended to be applied in actual voids or cavities and should not be applied in a layer over the face of a board, since it can come loose with the slight expansion of the underlying surface.
Durham's is not recommended for porch floor or deck repairs or other areas that are difficult to keep sealed from moisture.
If paint peels from the putty, it is either not thoroughly dried and has a high moisture content, or it is getting damp or absorbing moisture from some source.
If the area that you are filling is deeper than about 1/4 inch, you should fill in layers of about 1/4 inch and let the putty dry overnight before applying the next layer. On deep fills that are done all at one time, the water putty at the bottom of the fill will remain quite damp for many days, since all the moisture that is deep in the patch has to work its way through the dried putty that is exposed to the air.
Posts: 6,562
Threads: 2
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: North Florida
I fixed an outside light hole in my cedar siding with another piece of cedar but it was easy to get to. I cut it close to size, hammered it in, and planed it down to the surface. This might work on some of the holes. On another place behind the gutter, I used spray foam to fill a void made by some critter. It swelled to fit and is waterproof. This might be good in the hard to reach areas.
===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===---
Please visit my website
splintermaking.com
Posts: 787
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2010
I've done the holesaw trick several times and it works like a charm. I will take the arbor off of the saw before I drill the hole in the house. Use a piece of wood with the same size hole as the saw drilled through it, nail it To the house as a guide. I use PL premium for the glue put It on heavy and then in a few hours scrape the excess. This is better than any filler plus the glue is awesome outside. You might need a little exterior filler for pinholes in the glue but this works like a charm.
Everybody blamed his old man for makin him mean as a snake. When Amos Moses was a boy his daddy would use him for alligator bait!
-Jerry Reed
Larry
Posts: 787
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2010
Oh yeah. I forgot. Woodpeckers are jerks.
Everybody blamed his old man for makin him mean as a snake. When Amos Moses was a boy his daddy would use him for alligator bait!
-Jerry Reed
Larry
Posts: 253
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2010
sawnuts - stay away from fillers. Plug and epoxy is the way to go. For the areas that have holes and some rot cut out a larger area. Cut a piece of wood that will fit the area, for S&G we will say a 6x6 pc of replacement wood. Cut the hole about a 1/16" smaller and shape to fit. You can back the replacement pc with plywood that's about 4" wide and 10-12" long. Make sure it fits through the hole - then add some construction adhesive to the ends insert into hole splitting the length on both sides of the hole. Holding onto the plywood, countersink a couple of screws on each side. Then trial fit patch, when acceptable, apply construction adhesive to back and epoxy to sides and place into finial position. Drill and countersink a couple of screws into patch. Allow to dry, sand flush and your as good as new. The other thing you can do is to taper the sides on the patch and the hole cut, about 5'.
