Shop walls, shiplap
#15
Shiplap is fine, its the fastening that makes either shiplap or plywood strong. In areas subject to high loads, I'd be generous with fasteners.

Shiplap will definitely be more expensive unless you come up on a deal.

FWIW: On the new shop, around the electrical panels, I'll plan on the plywood being easily removable. That means, I'll cut off the tongues so individual panels can be removed. I'll probably also have smartly placed horizontal seams so only the top half needs removal for most re-wire jobs.
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#16
(05-10-2017, 09:10 AM)WaterlooMarc Wrote: I had originally intended for t&g then found the shiplap which I liked the look of better. But if the result will be stronger then I may revert back to that.

personally I wasn't lookin at the strength. lookin at the ease of mounting stuff onto an even surface with t&g over shiplap.

edit:
cancel that. im thinkin dutchlap. DOH!
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#17
Marc,

Excellent choice.  I made my own for the shop 4/4 stock planed to 7/8" and installed it horizontally. You can also install it vertically (which I might do the next time) - just personal preference.  For the majority of the items I can screw directly to the ship lap. For clamp racks, tool cabinets, etc. I prefer lag screws, either 1/4" or 5/16". As for the length:   thickness of item + 1" (to go thru ship lap) +1.5"   So say your clamp rack is 1/8" steel + 7/8" for ship lap + 1.5" into stud = 2.5"  If your doing a 3/4" french cleat + 7/8" for ship lap + 1.5 for stud = use a 2.5 or 3" lag screw. For heavy items - screw directly into studs.
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#18
My shop is drywall. I ran a French cleat a few feet below the ceiling around almost the entire shop. Has really made moving cabinets around and adding new ones easy.

Plus it keeps your pine from getting full of holes once you move something.

Mike
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