Am I to Stupid for WW?
#21
Rob you don't have "drift" because you have adjusted it out. Well done, and going this way results can be expected.

Other huge considerations.

Thumbscrew is a generic word. You have seen good ones, and crap ones which tightened, still have play. Change out crap hardware that won't hold a setting.

Blades. also a generic word. The one that cane with your saw is junk. Don't keep buying it, Custom cut and welded blades with blade material suited for the work you want to do are readily available. Hint: they don't come to you on a blister card, and they might cost a few $$$ more per each.

Blade guides need to be flush to the blade, and adjusted carefully to the approximate thickness of a dollar bill. I use new money. A "cool block" is more or less self adjusting, being softer it mills away until it is flush to the blade, but you still need to assure the teeth remain in front of the guide, or the guide will steer the blade. This includes when you are pushing the blade back into the backer roller.

If you don't want to do the work, or find your saw will not hold the tolerances needed, use a single point to guide your blade. This requires a carefully drawn line on your stock, and the blade MUST be 90* to the table.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#22
Wink 
(05-12-2017, 09:53 AM)jteneyck Wrote: You haven't been able to cut straight because something's wrong.   
Check the alignment of your wheels.  If they aren't coplaner you are headed for trouble. 

John

(I had this figured out, be it me or the BS ) But something is wrong.

Seriously I never considered aligning the wheels. Don't feel foolish?
Jim
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#23
Ron said "Went with the "does it deflect about 1/16" when poked with little finger" test." Won't you run out of fingers eventually? I only have 9 1/2 remaining.

Actually you too provided a lot to try.

I actually revert to ts along both sides and then the bs if necessary.
Jim
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#24
(05-12-2017, 04:30 PM)Halfathumb Wrote: (I had this figured out, be it me or the BS ) But something is wrong.

Seriously I never considered aligning the wheels. Don't feel foolish?

Nope.  You can't believe the foolish things I've done, and sometimes repeated. 

Don't give up on your BS.  It's a far superior tool for resawing than a TS ever thought of being.  And to show you I'm not just blowing smoke:

[Image: Ni39tGHXwgCpFLF9t-E0akFWFlvYw9sN74q5GBvV...38-h628-no]

[Image: E8GV_RMGKC4q0T31I3H-48se-QMkrynEFHZPx14r...38-h628-no]

john
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#25
(05-12-2017, 04:37 PM)Halfathumb Wrote: Ron said "Went with the "does it deflect about 1/16" when poked with little finger" test." Won't you run out of fingers eventually? I only have 9 1/2 remaining.

Actually you too provided a lot to try.

I actually revert to ts along both sides and then the bs if necessary.

Turn of the saw after the first one...
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#26
I always struggled on a 14" BS.

Then I bought a 17", put a 3/4" blade on it and never thought about it again. Not everyone can have a dedicated resaw bandsaw....but for me it solved the issue.

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#27
Adjust so the gullet of the teeth run at the crown. I have a 14" delta x with riser and never have a problem unless the gullet is too far forward
For The Love Of Wood
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#28
If the cut is drifting off,  you are either not cutting in line with the blade, not keeping the material tight to the fence. A dull, incorrect, or inadequately tensioned blade will also cause this.

There are many other factors such as making sure the board face and edge are square, the feed rate is constant, and the machine has enough power.  IMO the blade is just as important.

Two options:


1. Line your fence to the drift angle of the blade. (Do this by ripping along a line parallel to the edge of a board and aligning fence to that).
2. Line your blade to the fence (an involved procedure involving making wheel planar, using a crowned tire, etc etc).

1 is easy, 2 can be a PITA to accomplish and if its taking more than an hour not worth the time IMO.

I prefer using a fence as opposed to a point of contact.
Its also a good idea to make a feather board or use another board to keep pressure against the fence.
Try to maintain a constant feed rate.
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#29
Laguna Resaw King (and a good bandsaw)
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#30
It always comes down to blade, tension and tracking. Back off the guides and get it cutting well with those three things first.
RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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