Questions Re: Upgrading Carpeted Staircase w/ New Wood Treads

[Don_M]

I am upgrading the stair case in my house. It is currently carpet on top of 1” thick plywood treads. I plan on removing all the carpet and replacing the treads/risers with solid hardwood (on top of the existing plywood). A few questions:

1. Does/would it make sense to use a foam underlayment under the new treads (similar to underlayments used when laying down hardwood flooring). I haven't really seen this – but it makes sense to me to deaden sound and take out any unevenness in the existing plywood. I should mention the stair case is a “curved” staircase and so the treads are basically shaped like a slice of pie. Smaller on the inboard side and up to 18” wide along the outer edge).

2. Attaching New Treads to the Existing Plywood Treads – Finish nails or screws w/ plugs (sanded flush and finished of course).

3. Attaching Bottom Newel Posts to the Staring Tread. The lower newel posts will sit on top of the Staring Step which has a wrap-around bull nose tread/riser. I have seen a number of different hardware solutions for affixing the post to the surface of the tread – including a large lag bolt up thru the underside of the tread into the bottom of the post. But I think I would like something more secure. Was thinking about a 2”x2” tenon at the bottom of the post, thru the tread and then into a box mortise on the underside of the tread (probab1y at least 5” long in the box mortise). Thoughts?

4. Finish – Are there any non-slip or slip resistant finishes that are commonly used on wooden staircases?


Thanks

[atgcpaul]

What happens at the top and bottom of the stairs? Won't the bottom riser be higher than normal and the top riser be shorter than normal?

[Don_M]

No.

The existing Starting Step and bull-nose was already wood (it was the only tread not carpeted) I completely rebuilt it in-kind out of the new material The top of the second floor landing is carpet. I will install a "landing" tread at the top - which will be (more or less) even with the carpet.

[Cooler]

What happens at the top and bottom of the stairs?  Won't the bottom riser be higher than normal and the top riser be shorter than normal?

That was my thinking.  Uneven risers are not to code almost everywhere.  

Wood steps without a runner seem to wear fast and are a slip and fall hazard in my opinion, especially for some dogs.  The geometry of the rear legs of my German Shepherd Dog was such that his rear "ankles" would hit the riser when walking down the steps which meant that his paws were always at the very lip of the steps when walking down.  Without the carpet runner he could not walk down the steps safely.

In my opinion using carpet runner stair hardware and a nice runner is the best of both worlds.  It is attractive and can easily be replaced and it is safe.  Plus the wood finish makes a nice contrast.

[K. L. McReynolds]

I've used this product several times, in wood and concrete finishes/paint. [email=http://www.homedepot.com/p/Seal-Krete-3-2-oz-Clear-Grip-Anti-Skid-Additive-402002/203002764]Anti-slip[/email]

[Don_M]

Thanks - this looks like it could work. I will try it out.

[Don_M]

Riser height should be OK (i.e., consistent). The thickness of existing carpet together with the carpet pad is approximately the thickness of the new treads - so it all works out. I have heard differing experiences about wood v. carpet - some even saying that carpet is as slippery as wood (not sure I totally buy that, however). I have a curved/spiral staircase - so runner would need to be custom made - I think non-slip additive to the finish will mitigate issue.