Microjig Splitter Installation Issues?

[Tumerboy]

I have an old Unisaw that has no riving knife. A number of years ago, I wanted to figure out a splitter for it. I liked the idea of the MJ Splitter system, and so I bought a kit, and a new Leecraft insert. I watched the video a couple of times, read all of the instructions, and then carefully followed the instructions. In the end, I had one splitter that needed pretty extreme pressure to get in, and the other twisted and off axis.

I figured I'd goofed, and got another insert.

I have repeated that process a few times over the years, each time thinking I must have just done something wrong, and I'd give it another go. I've used the same kit since the start. Each time has resulted in splitters that are misaligned or won't fit into the insert.

I tried again tonight (for some reason), and again, was disappointed. At this point, the heat build up and repeated use has probably just shot the holes in the guide, so I won't be using it again.

The first few times I tried to follow the "One smooth drill, all the way through," but the bit wasn't clearing chips and by time it finished, the flutes would be caked in phenolic chips. So the subsequent times I've backed out every few seconds to clear the chips. While that has kept the heat down a bit, it doesn't seem to have helped with hole positioning.

I've seen a number of the 1 and 2 star Amazon reviews saying that they ran into similar issues, so at least I'm not alone.

What I'm curious about, is if anyone who has run into these issues has ever gone on to solve them? Did we just get bad kits? Are we actually doing something wrong? Is there any way to correct a botched job? I have a stack of inserts now, and while I can still use them for dadoes and bevels, they can't be mounted with splitters again as far as I can tell.

I'm kind of amazed that the guide is just plastic. It seems like some steel bushings for each of the drill holes would have done wonders.

Anyway, anyone recovered from such issues?

[Robert Adams]

I have one of the old green splitters. Nver had any issue with drilling the holes. If you are wearing out the jig either the bit is really bad or you are spinning it way too fast or not straight. 

        My issue with them was that they were plastic. If i was lucky it would just pull out on its own. But it would usually bend the pins and then come out. A few times you can bend them back but after that its a lost cause. I asked them at the ww show years ago if they would come out with a steel version and they said no that the plastic version was safer andnif it was pulling out it was operator error...  Then a few years later they came oit with the ones with the steel insert..... 


          Its too bad it isnt an all metal splitter with screws from the bottom of the zci.

         Don't know where you are but if you are in DFW and yours is the green one you can have my drilling jig.

[Bill Holt]

I have the thin kerf version (maybe 10 yrs old).  The front splitter is not perfectly located but close enough it works.  I had trouble with the second splitter and it did not last any time.  Your post has me a little concerned because I was thinking of doing another one.  Mine is old and well worn.  If I was blessed with beginner's luck on the first one, not sure I want try it again.

Hope someone offers a good answer.

[mdhills]

I've had similar results, and haven't debugged what was going wrong.
Note that some of the splitter kits have metal in them and are biased to be strong in one direction or another.

I sometimes use the shark guard splitter on my saw (this uses the standard mount used by the blade guard).

I've also made a low-profile splitter using a drill bit.
I think I saw this from a shop tour of one of the FWW editors, and think it is similar to this tip on their site:  http://www.finewoodworking.com/2005/10/2...tually-use 

1)  make zero-clearance insert
2)  make the kerf for your blade
3)  Using drill press table and a bit sized for the kerf, set the drill press fence so that you are aligned with the kerf
4)  switch down a hair on drill bit size (maybe 1/64 down), drill your hold, and then glue the bit in that hole

This works pretty well, but does require your drill press to be square to the table.
You should also think about how high you want the bit to be above (and below) the table.


Matt

[rwe2156]

Yeah, the pins do seem a bit tight.  I think perhaps a drop of oil might help that.

The other issue I have is making sure the splitter is inserted all the way.

Other than a bit of tugging to remove, it works ok.  Broke one of them pulling with pliers.

Once this one breaks, I plan to make my own.

[Stwood_]

I've got one of the original kits and still use it when I need to replace my table saw insert.
Never had a problem using it.

[Steve N]

Isn't there a drilling guide you tape down to the insert before drilling it out? That would give a clear path to where you want the holes, so all that is left is drilling smoothly. I've done several of these through the years, and they haven't been a problem.

You mentioned a few things that made me wonder about your drilling. Lemme ask a few questions, or suggest a few things maybe.......

Using a hand drill, or a drill press. The press will get best results every time. Potential for being off angle with a hand drill is as bad as off the mark. You must drill 90* holes.

Always use top quality bits. Cheap bits cause more problems that fixing them, and replacing material is more expense than a good bit.

[Stwood_]

Drill guide gets screwed down on a template if I remember correctly. I haven't had to use mine in some time.

[Tumerboy]

Isn't there a drilling guide you tape down to the insert before drilling it out? That would give a clear path to where you want the holes, so all that is left is drilling smoothly. I've done several of these through the years, and they haven't been a problem.

You mentioned a few things that made me wonder about your drilling. Lemme ask a few questions, or suggest a few things maybe.......

Using a hand drill, or a drill press. The press will get best results every time. Potential for being off angle with a hand drill is as bad as off the mark. You must drill 90* holes.

Always use top quality bits. Cheap bits cause more problems that fixing them, and replacing material is more expense than a good bit.

The instructions have you cut a template board, with a rip most of the way through, with the fence set to 2".  Then, you leave that board around the blade, and screw down the guide to the template board, and drill out the insert while it is still around the blade on the saw.  No way to get a drill press there, and thus, yes, I used a hand drill, as it suggested.

And yes, I'm using a quality brad point bit, not the POS that comes with the kit.

[JGrout]

The instructions have you cut a template board, with a rip most of the way through, with the fence set to 2".  Then, you leave that board around the blade, and screw down the guide to the template board, and drill out the insert while it is still around the blade on the saw.  No way to get a drill press there, and thus, yes, I used a hand drill, as it suggested.

And yes, I'm using a quality brad point bit, not the POS that comes with the kit.

It kinda sounds to me like your template board is off, if only just a small amount  I have no difficulty with the one I  made but I do recall putting a rule on my ZCI before cutting the template; glad I did because it was not 2" 

Joe