Jointer Use Question

[Steve N]

I only worry about edge first if I cannot cut to rough size without it being problematic. If it is, I usually use a sled which really isn't a sled, rather it's a piece of squared wood that I can run against the fence, with a hook in front, or where the wonky edged piece can ride up on the "sled" and I can push it through the saw to get a square cut with the TS first.








I don't have a pic of it, but Joe has a simpler piece with just a hook to hold the piece as he runs it through the saw to give it one flat edge.

The worst problems will be with really unflat stock when trying to cut to rough length. If it isn't flat at all you may need to start edge first, then flatten one face on the jointer. Not doing so will often cause binding at the chop saw as you go to rough cut to length. Once you get a bind, and a kickback on a chop saw you will pay more attention to what you are trying to chop. You can do a yo yo cut across the face of the board to shorten it, where you don't try to push straight through, but moving the saw in and out just make a series of chops going partially through the stock, until you have sawn it completely through. My thought is it's best to see that done before moving ahead with it. The safest way is to rough cut to length on those special cases with a hand saw.

[sawnuts]

"The safest way is to rough cut to length on those special cases with a hand saw."


Now your talking. I have around 40 handsaws that I have restored and sharpened. I have sold a few hundred of my saws on the popular website over the last dozen years. 

When my machines don't seem like the right way to cut something (usually brought stock). I resort to a hand saw. Even rip saws are good solutions for the wonky edge removal. I'm surprised people try problematic (read unsafe) cuts with machines. Table saws and chop saws come to mind.

I like your not a sled...sled.

Mark