Hey, guys. Working on a walnut table top and will have a few questions as I go...mostly about finishing. First time working with walnut, so let me have it.
Right now, I have the top glued up in 2 sections. I am going to run those sections through my drum sander just to ensure they are uniform thickness and to level out any unevenness in the glue up. From there, its cut to final dimensions, try and figure out a safe way to cut a nice deep bevel on the underside of the table, and then finish. The table is going on metal legs.
Couple of questions:
1. Anyone have a good way to cut nice deep bevel around the top? I really want to go past 45 degrees, but am having trouble working that detail out. I know the obvious answer is hand planes, but I just got my first one and I am nowhere near proficient enough with it to accomplish that. I'm thinking an angled jig that my router can ride on with a nice big straight bit.
2. I am planning on applying some walnut danish oil to reduce the contrast with the sapwood a bit (I ended up with a lot more sapwood than I expected when I selected the boards. Guess I should read up on how to recognize sapwood in rough cut lumber). I also want to fill the grain. And I like to spray GF High Performance as the topcoat. So, does this sound right:
A. Walnut danish oil...2 or 3 coats. Let it dry.
B. Seal coat of dewaxed shellac. Let it dry.
C. Fill the grain with Behlen Walnut Pore-O-Pac following instructions.
D. Another seal coat?
E. Spray GF HP to desired finish.
If you want a uniform color I don't think walnut danish oil is going to do it. Jeff Jewitt has published at least one article in FWW about bringing walnut to a uniform color, so there's one resource for you. The gist of his process is to dye the obvious sapwood areas first. I use Transtint dyes, but there are others. Anyway, you apply the dye only to the sapwood using whatever means you feel comfortable with. I've used a rag or paper towel on larger areas, down to a small artist's brush for really small areas. A touchup spray gun works well, too, for blending from the sapwood to the heartwood. In any case, the idea here is not to provide a perfect color match but to move the color of the sapwood closer to the heartwood. Don't go too dark at this point, better to be intentionally lighter.
When that's done, you seal it with a coat of dewaxed shellac; I like Sealcoat. If you use Transtint dye you'll need to spray the shellac. If you use TransFast dye which is soluble only in water, you can apply the shellac anyway you want. I would still spray it. The next step is to apply a glaze over the entire top. If you want to fill the grain, now would be the time to do it. When that's done, apply another coat of shellac sealer. Now you apply a glaze over the entire top. This is the step that really unifies the color. You can wipe of more or less in the sapwood/heartwood areas to make the color uniform everywhere. If, despite your best efforts, it's still not uniform enough, you can apply a second coat of glaze, or you could spray a toner coat of Transtint in Sealcoat, spraying more on the light areas. After all the glazing is done, spray a coat of Sealcoat, and then spray your topcoats.
If your table is going to see hard use, like a kitchen table, I would not use GF's HP Poly as it's not very resistant to ammonia containing cleaners or hot dishes. I would look at GF's Enduro Clear Poly. It's just as clear as HP Poly, sprays just as easily, and is far more durable.
Thanks, John. I've read that article and am trying to decide if I need to go that far...have to weigh the desire for a uniform finish against the probability that I will completely screw one or more of those steps...
I was thinking the oil would just reduce the contrast between the 2 ends of the color spectrum, but I suppose if I apply it to the whole surface, it will all just get darker, keeping the contrast ratio the same.
06-04-2017, 08:25 PM (This post was last modified: 06-04-2017, 08:26 PM by JokerRN.)
So, I have the top all put together, have the bevel cut on the underside (Used a 60 degree chamfer bit) and have some Danish oil applied. I went with medium walnut to darken up the wood a bit and to tone down the sapwood. I love how it looks so far.
Now I'm trying to figure out what to do next. A big part of me just wants to start spraying finish so I can get this thing done, but I feel like I should sealcoat this and then fill the grain. There are a couple of imperfections that I think the filler would fill/hide.
So if I want to fill the grain, can I
Sealcoat this.
Apply Behlens oil based grain filler per instructions.
Sealcoat that.
Topcoat with GF Enduro Clear Poly sprayed on?
(06-04-2017, 08:25 PM)JokerRN Wrote: So, I have the top all put together, have the bevel cut on the underside (Used a 60 degree chamfer bit) and have some Danish oil applied. I went with medium walnut to darken up the wood a bit and to tone down the sapwood. I love how it looks so far.
Now I'm trying to figure out what to do next. A big part of me just wants to start spraying finish so I can get this thing done, but I feel like I should sealcoat this and then fill the grain. There are a couple of imperfections that I think the filler would fill/hide.
So if I want to fill the grain, can I
Sealcoat this.
Apply Behlens oil based grain filler per instructions.
Sealcoat that.
Topcoat with GF Enduro Clear Poly sprayed on?
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
I'm impressed the Danish Oil unified the color that much; never would have expected it would. You could make the color even more consistent if you apply a glaze after step 3. So the schedule would be:
Another option to unify the color more would be to spray a toner after the grain filler, instead of the glaze, or sometimes in addition to it when the colors are still way off. I use Transtint dye in Sealcoat to make toners. In that case, the schedule would be:
Sealcoat
Grain Filler
Toner of Sealcoat with Transtint
Topcoats
Don't rush it. You're doing great and your efforts will reward you 100x over when it's done. Lots of folks are good builders; far fewer also are good finishers.
What separates them is mostly lack of effort.
Thanks again, John. I feel like you are my own personal WW coach. I applied the sealcoat to the bottom of the table and my test piece today. Will do the filler on the tester tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks again.
One point. I believe that GF specifically warns about Sealcoat.
"Can I use shellac under the Enduro-Var? No, if you need to lock in dye, use only one light coat, dewaxed, 1# cut, and sand before applying for adherence."
I've not really understood what that practically meant. What are your experiences with topcoating over Sealcoat?
Sorry, Dan. I missed your comment. I used GF Enduro Clear Poly on this top, not the Enduro Var.
Well, it's done...mostly. I applied several coats of the Poly to the top and am generally happy with how it looks. I used flat as that is what the customer requested.
So what is the last step for you guys with a water based flat finish? I obviously don't want to rub out a glossy finish, but there are a few dust nibs that I would like to knock down. Paper bag? Abrasive pad and wax after? How long do I wait after the last coat? Do I want to do it before it cures fully? Thanks again for the advice.
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