Reverse bevel hinge replacement
#10
My wife and I are having the 25yo kitchen cabinets refinished. Currently the doors have exposed hinges with a reverse bevel on the door. We'd like to replace them to euro style but the cup position with the reverse bevel of the door presents a problem. It puts the edge of the door too close to the face frames when in the open position. Does anyone have a recommendation of what can be done? The cabinets are face frames with 1/2" overlay.
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#11
a half or maybe even a full crank hinge should allow the clearance required 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#12
What hinge are you trying to use?  For a 1/2" OL you can use Blum's 110° straight arm hinge B071T3550 (at least that's what it is in Woodworker's Hardware catalog) and 3 mm Plate B175L6030.21.  Use a Bore distance of 4.5 mm (22 mm from the edge to center of the cup) for 1/2" OL.  The door should clear the frame when you open the door as long as the side reveal is adequate.  Perhaps that's the problem with the hinge you have now?

There are other hinge options, too.  

John
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#13
(05-28-2017, 03:17 PM)shughes Wrote: My wife and I are having the 25yo kitchen cabinets refinished. Currently the doors have exposed hinges with a reverse bevel on the door. We'd like to replace them to euro style but the cup position with the reverse bevel of the door presents a problem.  It puts the edge of the door too close to the face frames when in the open position.  Does anyone have a recommendation of what can be done?  The cabinets are face frames with 1/2" overlay.


I understand your problem, but not sure what to recommend. You need a hinge that will kick the door edge farther out when opened.
I've always used 1/2 overlay. Wondering if a 3/4 overlay set in a 1/2 or 5/8 overlay position would work.
I'll tinker with that. I have some 3/4 hinges
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#14
If I remember correctly, whenever we needed a door to kick out so to speak, we had to use a thick door hinge. The hinge number is 71B9550 and you would need a 4.5 mm base plate, 175H6040. Hope this helps.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#15
Ahhh, I see the real issue now, I think.   If so, then you need a hinge designed for a "lipped" door, like B071T6550 with the B181.613, 3 mm spacer.   And you'd want to put an angle restriction clip on it unless you want them to open 170° like they are designed to do.  

John
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#16
Thanks for the responses. After some closer inspection, the doors have a "reverse bevel" on them and have a 5/8" reveal.
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#17
Did you ever figure out what you're going to do with your reverse bevel doors?

I'm in the same boat.  House built in '91, painting the kitchen cabinets and replacing hardware.  I was trying to use the euro-style concealed hinges, but I just can't find the right overlay/mounting combination so that the hinge isn't visible from the side (due to being too close to the edge of the door/bevel).
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#18
(06-30-2017, 01:30 PM)jgreg311 Wrote: Did you ever figure out what you're going to do with your reverse bevel doors?

I'm in the same boat.  House built in '91, painting the kitchen cabinets and replacing hardware.  I was trying to use the euro-style concealed hinges, but I just can't find the right overlay/mounting combination so that the hinge isn't visible from the side (due to being too close to the edge of the door/bevel).


I have the same cabinet doors with reverse bevel door. I would also like to know the hinge to use?
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