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Derek Cohen · 06-05-2017, 11:10 AM

In part I, work had begun on the boat-shaped sofa table ...

[Image: 13a_zpswojszugd.jpg]

We left off last time with the bow aprons completed ...

[Image: 4a_zps1k2rxtuu.jpg]

Before I began the legs, which I had planned for this weekend past, I had another look at the aprons and decided that they could be slimmed down, which would enable the legs to be slimmed as well. This involved removing a 10mm strip from the centre on the table saw, and glueing the two sections up again. We could now begin on the legs.

The blanks for the legs were 75 x 40mm (3" x 1 1/2") Hard Maple. Using a template, sections with the straightest grain could be marked out ...

[Image: 3a_zpszemn1ylt.jpg]

.. and then sawn out on the bandsaw ...

[Image: 5a_zpsolx7hxdz.jpg]

It was easier to plane the concave side and spokeshave the convex side ...

[Image: 6a_zpsp6vw6nax.jpg]

Any irregularities were smoothed with a scraper ...

[Image: 9a_zpsfn7rcvbt.jpg]

Below are the completed basic legs and slimmed down aprons (with drawer blades removed) ..

[Image: 1a_zpsoee75nie.jpg]

The legs would be joined to the apron with mortice and tenons. This had its challenges as the apron, being bowed, has only one flat side. In retrospect, it would have been easier to have extended the maple veneer on the inside all the way, and not stop it short where the tenons would be formed. As a result, it was not possible to mark the tenons with a gauge. Fortunately, the ends were square and became the reference side ...

[Image: 2a_zpspgb7qn6c.jpg]

The mortice and tenon is 1/2" wide. The 1/3 Rule is used, and the mortice extends 2/3 in the leg.

The shoulders are knifed, undercut, and then sawn ...

[Image: 4a_zpsjcikoxhb.jpg]

The cheeks are sawn close to the line, but not at close as I usually do. I am leaving a little extra waste for fine tuning ...

[Image: 5a_zpsvkd8sbmh.jpg]

Derek Cohen · 06-05-2017, 11:11 AM

[Image: 6a_zpstepua6q0.jpg]

My strategy is to level the side of the cheeks parallel to the flat side of the apron using a router plane (David Charlesworth's technique from about 20 years ago) ..

[Image: 2-1_zpst7qzuyug.jpg]

The other side has to be chiseled as the bowed apron does not permit use of the router plane.

[Image: 1-2a_zpspyyx8myb.jpg]

Accuracy of the tenon is checked with a template ...

[Image: 2a_zpswyayzdbt.jpg]

There is a another reason for the absolute precision here - the inside of the legs must align precisely with the inside face of the apron as a drawer will be fitted from the side.

In the photo below, the position for the mortice is transferred from the tenon. At the rear is a straight edge ensuring all lines up ...

[Image: 3a_zpsymlk1vmy.jpg]

Once done, the mortices were made. After chopping a couple in the hard maple, I thought "this is for the birds", and used a router on the remainder. Half inch wide and 1 1/4" deep in hard maple is not fun!

[Image: 4a_zpstnzpmh2m.jpg]

Before assembling anything, there is some shaping to be done on the legs.

The legs not only curve in elevation, but the front curves in parallel with the apron and the table top ..

[Image: 5a_zpsfzlp51vp.jpg]

The insides of the legs will be tapered, and this will be completed after the outer curve is shaped.

The curve is simply planed to the lines, and then sanded to removed any irregularities ...

[Image: 6a_zpsumenpbri.jpg]

Below you can see two sets of apron/legs. The right hand is shaped, while the left side remains to be done. The apron is set back by 2mm to create a shadow line ...

[Image: 7a_zpsvgnbnvxo.jpg]

This is the final photo for this segment. The taper has yet to be done. The mortice and tenon will be drawbored for a tight finish. The inside faces have been cleaned up (too many photos already, so there are lots of small details I have chosen to omit).

[Image: 8a_zps5nkn1qee.jpg]

This will now give you a better idea of what I am trying to achieve.

Comments and discussion welcomed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

cputnam · 06-05-2017, 05:21 PM

I'm liking the look! Do you plan to round the edges on the legs?

Would you please elaborate on the scraper? It appears to be a modified plane iron.

hbmcc · 06-05-2017, 07:03 PM

You are brave to chop mortises on a finished leg, even if it is hard maple.

Derek Cohen · 06-05-2017, 08:16 PM

(06-05-2017, 05:21 PM)cputnam Wrote: I'm liking the look! Do you plan to round the edges on the legs?

Would you please elaborate on the scraper? It appears to be a modified plane iron.

Hi Curt

I will ease the edges, but aim to keep the legs as crisp as possible otherwise. As shown above, the outside face is rounded. The inside face will be tapered.

The scraper is one I have posted here on a few occasions. Made from the end of a plane blade. Hone it on the grinder ...

[Image: Sharpening-blade-scrapera_zpslgrvfjha.jpg]

[Image: Sharpening-blade-scrapera_zpslgrvfjha.jpg]

And you are ready to work ...

[Image: 1_zpspr2v0uh1.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek Cohen · 06-05-2017, 08:19 PM

(06-05-2017, 07:03 PM)hbmcc Wrote: You are brave to chop mortises on a finished leg, even if it is hard maple.

Hi Bruce

No other option after the legs were cut away from the inside of a section. Plus, the mortices needed to be very precisely positioned to align with the inside of the aprons.

Regards from Perth

Derek

mr_skittle · 06-06-2017, 08:06 AM

Its coming along nicely.

hbmcc · (This post was last modified: 06-06-2017, 11:00 AM by hbmcc.)

Your tuning fudge --like eating utensil
Upset

-- (Tenon template gauge) leads to curiosity. This implies a standardised set of parts, so there is no A-leg matched to A'-apron tenon. But then, the mortises are uniform. However, you note need for precision alignment for the drawer guides (blades), from the initial frame build. Aren't drawers, and guides, built and fitted last? So you don't need to fuss so soon into the build?

Also, considering top and bottom rails, and apron thickness (depth), there doesn't appear to be much space in the drawer. My WAG is about 3" maximum depth for the apron. Do you have a collection of pencils you want to display? This will be an interesting development to watch.
Cool

Edit- d*** censors. The clarifier fixed the 'fudge', however.

Derek Cohen · (This post was last modified: 06-06-2017, 11:29 AM by Derek Cohen.)

Bruce, the tenon template was to aid in judging that the cheeks were parallel and 1/2" thick. It was only possible to use the router plane on one side. The other side was levelled and tuned with a chisel. The tenons are the same size, but they are not positioned exactly the same distance from the inside edge of the apron. That is why setting up the mortices was so important.

Quote:Aren't drawers, and guides, built and fitted last? So you don't need to fuss so soon into the build?

In a chest of drawers, then yes. Two points here:

Firstly, the table has a single drawer which is long and must fit into perfectly parallel sides to avoid binding or rattling around.

Secondly, I recognised that building in the manner I have done, the drawer blades can be made perfectly parallel using a simple rectangle of plywood to represent the drawer - the drawer blades are already made and will be glued into the grooves when ready for the rails. At this point the rails may be measured, and fitted.

It is just a different approach. Seems to be working so far.

The drawer internal depth is likely to be closer to 2". I am trying to conserve every fraction of an inch I can. I have done this before (in the kist I built). Even a shallow "drawer" (tray?) is a valuable (fun) space, especially when it is hidden.

There's a drawer in the moulding ...

[Image: Kist_html_645c34aa.jpg]

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Kist.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

hbmcc · 06-06-2017, 10:17 PM

I remember the kist build, but not the moulding drawer. That treatment on the kist looks nice.

I will let you build and reveal. Or, do you need pushes and shoves to be motivated?

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