Purple Heart and Band Saws

[veyonyx]

Hello, I've recently began making bows and purchased a big band saw to cut thin laminates.  I've been working with wood for decades but have always done things by hand apart from the occasional dremel or belt sander. 

I killed my first brand new blade after cutting through less than 2 meters of purple heart (about 3/4" thickness).  The second blade I purchased was a $40 bimetal and I was able to cut about double before it dulled out.  I'm going very slowly, letting the saw do the work and not forcing the wood.  Now my generic third blade is dull after a 14" cut of 2" katlox ebony.  
Something else that I noticed with the third blade that maybe you can help me with: I noticed the blade keeps drifting outward.  I thought that it was simply the grain of the cedar that I was cutting, but it is also doing it with osage, red oak, bamboo, and the ebony.  I've made every adjustment listed in the manual but I still get that 1/16" shift with every cut. 
 
I have two questions:
1. Any advice for a cutting hard woods like purple heart and ebony?  Are the $140 Lennox tungsten carbide blades worth it?

2. Any idea as to why my blade keeps drifting outward (away from the machine)? 

Thanks,
Jordan

[ez-duzit]

I have been using the same carbide blade for years without sharpening.

[WilliamHodge]

You might have the saw set up such that the blade saws some metal when running. Take a look at the entire path of the blade, and see if there are some wear marks on guards, guides, etc.

One might wonder how I would have thought of such a crazy idea, given that no one would be so careless as to saw a guard with a band saw blade. I did it.

[iclark]

This does not sound normal.

Did you buy the saw new?

What make and model is it?

By making all of the adjustments, I assume that you are talking about all 6 guides and the tension. Is that correct?

Where on the upper wheel is the blade riding? Are the tires in good shape and properly installed?

What did you find when you checked for WilliamHodge's suggestion?

No offense, but are you sure the blade is running in the correct direction and that the teeth are pointing the right way? Some folks here have gotten really good deals on used BS because the previous owner had the blade on upside down.

The older BS manuals used to have lots of coverage of working with drift angles, but modern blades and guides have really reduced the need for those techniques.

[6270_Productions]

I have been a woodworker for more than forty years.  I like to work with exotic woods.

I spent 25 years in the Army.

I am sorry, when I read this thread title, all I could think of was this -

[Bill Holt]

Me toooooo!  Sometime ago I bought a very nice used 18" band saw and had similar experiences.  Since I had no manual (probably would not have looked at it anyway) I broke it down and reassembled it testing/double checking every step as I put it back together.  That made a HUGE difference!  The saw runs great, my operating skills need to improve.
Do not through away the blades...you can re-sharpen them with a Dermal.

[Rob Young]

Me toooooo!  Sometime ago I bought a very nice used 18" band saw and had similar experiences.  Since I had no manual (probably would not have looked at it anyway) I broke it down and reassembled it testing/double checking every step as I put it back together.  That made a HUGE difference!  The saw runs great, my operating skills need to improve.
Do not through away the blades...you can re-sharpen them with a Dermal.

I suggest never using your dermal (--of or related to skin--) on a bandsaw blade.  


A Dremel on the other hand along with the right diameter rotary stone or diamond bit works wonders on steel bandsaw blades.

[castguy2003]

Can you slow down the blade speed? To high a sfpm will dull blades because of abrasion, heat, etc.

[veyonyx]

I own the Grizzly GO555LX and bought it brand new in March. I've played with it for hours when I changed the first blade to understand the machine better and am able to adjust it to run as smooth as when I purchased it. I do have the manual and can practically recite the thing from memory. The blade is definitely facing the correct way and riding on the crown of the wheel. The rubber is perfectly in tact and it has no travel when in motion.
As for the speed it has two settings: 1800 rpm and 3000 rpm. I've only used it on the 1800 speed as instructed by the manual for cutting wood.
I've spoken with other people and all I hear is "purple heart is tough."

And thank you for your service 6270_Productions.

[Bill Holt]

Rob, thank you for the correction.

You do need to keep in mind....."It is a small person who can spell a word only one way."

The sad thing is I proof read my reply and still did not read "dermal".