Purple Heart and Band Saws
#15
(06-07-2017, 03:31 PM)Bill Holt Wrote: Rob, thank you for the correction.

You do need to keep in mind....."It is a small person who can spell a word only one way."

The sad thing is I proof read my reply and still did not read "dermal".

I can't spell for a darn, have to rely on the spillchucker.  And too heavily at that.

I just thought the error was funny.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#16
(06-07-2017, 01:25 PM)veyonyx Wrote: I own the Grizzly GO555LX and bought it brand new in March.  I've played with it for hours when I changed the first blade to understand the machine better and am able to adjust it to run as smooth as when I purchased it.  I do have the manual and can practically recite the thing from memory.  The blade is definitely facing the correct way and riding on the crown of the wheel.  The rubber is perfectly in tact and it has no travel when in motion.  
As for the speed it has two settings: 1800 rpm and 3000 rpm.  I've only used it on the 1800 speed as instructed by the manual for cutting wood.  
I've spoken with other people and all I hear is "purple heart is tough."  

And thank you for your service 6270_Productions.

The blade should not be centered on the crown.  The back (bottom) of the gullets should be just forward of centered on the crown.  This gives better support to the blade gullets and allows the beam strength of the blade to take care of keeping the back straight.  Helps considerably with tracking issues.

Alex Snodgrass of Carter Products has a nifty video on YouTube.  Recorded many years ago at The Woodworking Show.  Good intro to setting up a bandsaw and blade.  Not sure if it goes into much about the non-Carter blade guides though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU&t=910s
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#17
What is the tooth count? Small teeth don't have enough gullet to carry out the cuttings and this can cause heat and wear.
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#18
(06-07-2017, 08:57 PM)Wild Turkey Wrote: What is the tooth count?  Small teeth don't have enough gullet to carry out the cuttings and this can cause heat and wear.

Finally, someone got to the problem. For resaw you need fewer teeth, and deeper gullets, as WT suggests to carry away the mess you have cut. If you keep the gullets loaded with cut pulp that generates heat, and heat kills a cutting edge right now. All of the suggestions on setting up the saw are also very beneficial, and the going off your line is likely the cause of too little blade tension. Most saws have some sort of guide that shows the tension for the size of blade. Most saws also have it wrong, and you will actually need to over tension the blade, according to that guide. The guide could be right for circle, and curve cutting where a too tight blade may cause issues, but for straight line cutting a resaw you need those puppies tight. Plus the #2 is what brand of blade are you using? I find if the blade comes pre-made on a blister pack it is usually someone else's idea of what a good blade is, which would be like saying ALL people need to drive a Ford Focus. You just know that isn't going to work.


I really like these guys if you call them, they will fit your model saw to the right blade for doing what it is you want to do. Then you do have to set the saw up to give optimal results, and tension the blade to do the same. I am using a WoodMaster B NON CARBIDE, but my blades have 1.3 teeth per inch, so plenty of gullet to keep them cool. I use primarily Hard Maple, Oak, Walnut, Cherry, and Sycamore and can cut up enough wood for several projects. For my 18" Rikon that is about 65 bux a blade.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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