Glue down engineered wood floor.
#11
How difficult is it to pull up glue down engineered wood flooring? Can glue down be reinstalled on the concrete? Or will I need to go with floating?
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#12
It comes right up; with the right equipment. The smallest equipment necessary would be a mini excavator with a scraper attachment. These guys have it down to a science. http://reliancenh.com/services/commercia...equipment/ , check out their ride on machines. The problem is when there are a lot of levelers or soft concrete under the flooring. Even if you go at it with a decent size rotary/chipping hammer, it's hard not to dig into soft substrate. If you were replacing fully adhered carpet, most installers would allow some of the adhesive to remain if it was smooth and stable; That same outfit has big walk-behind grinders to clean up and even polish the concrete. If I was gluing down engineered flooring (not that I would ever want to do it again) I would want the floor perfectly smooth and also want plenty of rags and solvent (that won't harm the finish). Getting down enough to work towards the open glue (rather than reaching over and kneeling in it) is the messiest part. Unfortunately, unless it is poorly adhered, this is not a homeowner project unless that's what you want to do every weekend for the rest of the summer. You may have some saving grace in that most (real wood) engineered flooring is plywood with an extra thick top ply, suitable for sanding and re-finishing at least once. If you do get the flooring up, be absolutely certain that moisture levels are properly addressed and are compatible with the products you'll be installing.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#13
An installer I know recommends gluing down inexpensive sheet vinyl flooring (good side down) and gluing the engineered wood flooring to the back of the vinyl.
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#14
We looked at replacing the engineered hardwoods in our house when we moved in. Flooring contractor said he would remove the current engineered wood flooring (15 y/o on a slab foundation) for $3 a square foot.

I wasn't paying much more than that for the new engineered hardwood flooring material. We passed and the current floors still reside.

I believe they are splintered to smithereens in the "removal" process.
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#15
(07-05-2017, 11:01 AM)Lynden Wrote: An installer I know recommends gluing down inexpensive sheet vinyl flooring (good side down) and gluing the engineered wood flooring to the back of the vinyl.

To act as a moisture barrier?
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#16
I've installed glue-down once. That will be my last installation of glue-down flooring. I'd go with a floating floor. It will go much faster and be much cleaner to install.
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#17
I put down glue down engineered flooring 21 years ago.  It was over plywood.  Needs to be refinished now, but I had issues with the glue and gaps.  I probably put new flooring over top of it instead of refinishing. I would suggest a plywood substrate floating or screwed down and nail the engineered to it.  Fine Home Building had a good article on it a few years ago. Dan
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#18
(07-05-2017, 07:44 PM)KC Wrote: To act as a moisture barrier?

I assume this is one of the reasons.
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#19
This all started because a technician scratched the floor upgrading my internet connection. They. Over a very heavy desk and put a deep gouge about 3" king and 1/4" wide in the floor.
They are offering $500 to compensate but I am finding it difficult to get someone who will tackle it and do a great job.
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#20
You might think about having the damage repaired instead of ripping out the whole room. I don't know the details re your floor, but there are professionals that do furniture repair that can make the repair like that almost, if not completely, invisible. And your remuneration from the folks that did the damage would most probably cover it. Just a thought.....Ed
Ed
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