Best wax for furniture?
#11
My wife just got her fancy curio cabinet & wants to protect it.
She asked me what is the best product to wax it.
So, I told her I'd ask the brain trust on here.
All I know of is good old Johnson's Paste Wax.

I figure you guys would know what the best stuff it to use on it.

So I'm asking. What's the best wax to use on furniture?
It's dark cherry finish, if that matters.

Thanks for any help guys.
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#12
The best wax is no wax IMO. Done correctly wax gives a nice feel but still doesn't add protection. Done incorrectly (too much) wax collects dirt and finger prints, even softens some finishes. I use wax over Danish oil, sometimes, but never over a film finish.. My opinion.

John

The best thing your wife can do to protect it is dust it, keep her fingers off it, and clean it with mild dish soap and water ( and wipe dry immediately) when needed which should not be very often.
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#13
Personally, I don't think modern finishes require waxing.  If it has a traditional finish, then carnuaba wax has a reputation for leaving a very hard finish.

Appearance-wise I don't think that there is much to say one way or the other.  I see no difference.

At automobile shows I see the competitors using Pledge.  They say it is shinier but does not last very long.

http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.com/c/furniture-wax/
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#14
And when dusting, DON'T USE PLEDGE or any other sort of aerosol dusting aid/wax that could potentially contain silicone.  A nice microfiber cloth does a very good job.


That said, if she does insist on wax, Johnson's Paste wax is good stuff, cheap and cheerful.  Thinly applied, allowed to flash off and then vigorously buffed is great.  A second buffing with a new soft, clean cloth a few days later is even better.  Best application method for flat surfaces I've used is to take a clean cloth (old tee-shirt is good), cut a nice square about 6" to 8" on a side.  In the middle put a tablespoon dollop of wax.  Pull up the corners and make a bundle, twisting to compress the wax.  Cupping in your hand, as you rub the wood, the heat from your hand will melt the wax and a very thin layer will form and be pushed around by the "rubber" or "mouse" as the little bundle was once called.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#15
I have tried these waxes.

BriWax around 19 bux for a tin of it. It was ok, but not spectacular, and over Johnsons, and Minwax I didn't see much difference. Rubbed on over a garnet Shellac in all 3 instances for some frame of reference.

Renaissance Wax 19 bux at Amazon. maybe less elsewhere? Compared to Briwax, a walk away winner, also much better than any hardware store, big box wax you will find. Not only a great look, it feels like no other coating I have felt, kinda luxurious. It made LOML sit up and take notice, which is a special thing all by itself.  
Big Grin

For 19 bux, and it lasts a  LONG time I will never buy another wax product. Heck I wax my TS with it too. A hint is to put it on with Ulta fine steel wool. If you do it, versus just a rag, you'll see why. Now if you are waxing already finished furniture I would do that on something not seen easily. On finished stuff I have LOML trained that it's a damp microfiber cloth, followed by a dry one. UNLESS it has a wax finish on top, and needs any touch up. There is a time and place to add wax, and posters are correct too much wax can be a bad thing.The Renaissance was also used over Garnet shellac.

I haven't had a can of Johnson's paste wax in a lot of years, but I see it most often at car parts places. Are we sure it has no silicone? Pretty sure Minwax does not. I know Briwax, and Renaissance don't
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#16
If I have to wax, it's Renaissance.  It's expensive, but very little is used and it goes a long, long way.  I reserve my Johnson's Paste Wax for my power tools and other metal tools that need waxing.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#17
Johnson's wax in the yellow can with a red stripe has no silicone. Developed (at least according to the ad flummery on the can) for wood floors.

Cheap and cheerful. Consistently places well in the annual rehash tests in woodworking mags.

No serious complainants. It does have less carnuba than Ren wax. But also much cheaper per ounce.

Outside of the requirement of no silicone I would suggest that the best wax for wood is the one you already have a can of. Jumping from brand to brand and so accumulating a dozen partial cans will be expensive.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#18
Rob the reason I mentioned Johnsons is they used to have Johnsons WOOD paste wax, and also had Johnsons Car Wax. Now it's just Johnsons wax, and I see the same can at auto parts, and the BORG. Sometimes nothing more than the passing of time, and a few person changes is all that is different, but many a company has messed up a good product over the years. I think somewhere along there is where "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" came to be.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#19
I use Watco Satin Wax over Danish oil finishes.

https://www.amazon.com/RUST-OLEUM-67041-...B00013US58
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#20
(07-13-2017, 10:42 PM)Steve N Wrote: Rob the reason I mentioned Johnsons is they used to have Johnsons WOOD paste wax, and also had Johnsons Car Wax. Now it's just Johnsons wax, and I see the same can at auto parts, and the BORG. Sometimes nothing more than the passing of time, and a few person changes is all that is different, but many a company has messed up a good product over the years. I think somewhere along there is where "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" came to be.

These are the cans I'm talking about. 
http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/us/e...-paste-wax
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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