Best wax for furniture?
#21
(07-14-2017, 12:33 PM)Rob Young Wrote: These are the cans I'm talking about. 
http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/us/e...-paste-wax
...............
One of the highest quality waxes you can buy is Esquire shoe polish in a tin...It's available in "neutral" and several other colors like brown {good for oak} and mahogany {great on "reddish" woods}..I use both colors when waxing my old antique clock cases, etc..It has the ability to "mask" flaws, scrapes, scuffs etc....Takes a high glossy shine or a low luster depending on how it is polished ..We {Marines} used it for many years to achieve that glossy patent leather shine on our "low-quarter" dress shoes..Now the Corps issues "cheap patent leather shoes} that scream at you!!!!!!!
Upset ..Nothing I have used at any price works as well....
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





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#22
Protect it from what?

If the piece already has a film finish then there's no reason to do anything. If it has an oil finish (e.g Danish and not tung) then wax will add some moisture resistance to it, but that's it.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#23
I use Tree wax. I like it especially for machine top surfaces, It has a lot of carnauba wax so it can be a pain to wipe and it takes longer to harden than Johnsons.

Tom
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#24
(07-13-2017, 03:33 PM)jteneyck Wrote: The best wax is no wax IMO.  Done correctly wax gives a nice feel but still doesn't add protection. 
John

True words of wisdom.  Wax just adds work because its sheen is transient.  Start off with the sheen/gloss you want and save yourself some long term work.

Jim
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#25
For small wooden pieces, like boxes it's hard to beat a good shellac, rubbed out, and then hand waxed. It has almost no protective value so you don't wanna set sweaty drinks on it, but for just sitting there it is fabulous if you take the time to do it correctly.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#26
Steve N....... I agree with you about Rennaisance wax. Been using it for years. It lasts much longer than other options.
I have a question for you tho. When the guy from Woodcraft delivered and assembled my SawStop, he wiped the protective coating (cosmolene?) from the cast iron top with lacquer thinner. After he left I applied the RW. Now there are spots where the cosmolene has seeped up between the top and the attached CI wing.

I need to strip the RW to get to the seepage. Before I make a big mess, do you have a recommendation for the proper solvent to use? RW is a different compound from, say, Johnson's paste wax.

Thanks,

Jerry
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#27
(07-18-2017, 11:34 AM)budglo Wrote: I need to strip the RW to get to the seepage. Before I make a big mess, do you have a recommendation for the proper solvent to use? RW is a different compound from, say, Johnson's paste wax.

Thanks,

Jerry

Not from Steve N, but waxes (carnuba included) are soluble in mineral spirits. And as it so happens, that works OK for removing the shipping grease too.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#28
Rob.... Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go with MS.

Jerry
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#29
Yep, I always clean my old coat off the cast iron with MS, wipe it and walk away, come back the next day so you know it will have fully evaporated, and then proceed with reapplication of your Boesheild, wax, whatever. Sometimes it looks, and even feels dry, but trying to put a coating over it you will get that even with the MS if you go to fast. In SW Ohio it's a rust belt with humidity swings like we get here, and I have never had it rust up overnight without protection, but I have had it bubble up with what look like water spots going too fast.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#30
Side note, the last piece of cast iron I had with some kind of Cosmolene like coating on it was my Grizzly bandsaw.  Remembered being told that WD40 will cut the Cosmolene.  Sure enough, it did.  Spray down with WD40, let it soak a moment and then used a plastic putty knife to scrape off the majority.  It rolled off like icing from a cake (not that I've ever just scraped of the icing from a cake to eat the icing...).  Then another spritz, wait and wipe down with a shop rag to get the rest.

Certainly the solvents in the WD40 and not the "lubricant" part that did the trick.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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