Surfacing plastic cutting boards?
#9
I work in a supermarket and when the plastic cutting boards get too thin, we replace them. I brought some of the old ones home and they are about 1/2" thick.
I want to use my jointer ( Grizzly 6" w/spiral cutter) and planer ( dealt 735 w/ straight blades) to smooth the surfaces.
Is it ok to run this type of material (HDPE?) through my machines?
Seems like it would be ok, but worried that they could gum up the blades?

Thanks
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#10
I've ran wide sheets of plastic through my planer in the past with no ill effects. I needed a different thickness than I had on hand. I'd recommend really light cuts because it does get hot and could gum things up.
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#11
I've planned a fair amount of UHMW, and it works fine. The biggest problem is the mess...the shavings get everywhere and stick to anything, even with real good DC running.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#12
I would encourage great caution if you intend to use your Jointer. My main concern is around how to  keep it on the beds and moving forward without it attempting to push back ( a jointer kickback ) a push shoe would be my choice as the hold down but still is is kinda dicey 

In the planer I am not as concerned at least it does not depend on you to hold it down 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#13
I cut down large cutting boards to smaller ones for a friend of mine who sells them as part of his business. Boards can certainly be resurfaced by using your planer, however, you're going to end up with a smooth surface. The cutting boards I work with have a lightly dimpled texture to keep whatever is being cut on the board. I suspect that this surface is molded in when the plastic is manufactured and I don't know how it could be re-done. If you can work with the smooth surface that a planer will leave, I'd say go for it. The worst that can happen is you'll ruin the board and need to replace it.
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#14
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll skip the jointer. Never thought about kickback .
I do want them as smooth as possible , I am going to (attempt ) to make a larger top for my bandsaw with one of them and maybe an insert for my router table.
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#15
Hand plane eliminates danger.  You want an embossed surface, get a leatherworking tool or tap a bunch with your nail set.

https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-8091-00-Cra...ssing+tool
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#16
I second a hand plane, you can even oil the sole to decrease the heat friction others spoke about using power tool. A friend did it on a planer, it went so well he kept doing the pieces he was running, everything got hot, and unbeknownst to him the shavings that Fred mentioned were caking up just to the sides of the cutters. He didn't know of a problem until he stopped for a P break, came back and tried to restart, and found that his planer was effectively glued shut when the shavings cooled, and caked themselves to the knife drum. He was able to get it running again, but he had some hours in clean up.

In less than 20 minutes even a noob with a hand plane could figure it out after watching a few you toobs
Big Grin






This guy is REALLLLLLLY fast. Plus he cheats at the end
Big Grin

Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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