Split door panel repair help needed
#21
I seriously doubt the panel was glued in considering the direction of that split.




 The real culprit to preventing the panel from floating is the way the door is painted and over time locked the panel in a mostly rigid fashion.

the suggestions to remove the sticking in some manner so the panel can be replaced is the answer here. Yes you will have to make a new panel and new sticking . It is not worth the effort nor the time to try to save it.

Before you put the panel back in place. paint it. then apply the sticking after waxing the area to be covered with sticking on both sides so it does not stick again.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#22
Is your photo rotated 90°?  It sure looks it; otherwise, the stile/rail joint is opposite convention.  Assuming it is (rotated) the grain direction in that panel might be vertical, which would be consistent with the direction of the split.  It's just hard to believe a wood panel would split across the grain. 

John
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#23
Yeah, I'd rather replace the panel.  Wish I had a good panel raising plane - it'd make quick work out of a new panel.  Good idea about waxing the edges of the new (or repaired) panel.
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#24
John, the photo is indeed rotated 90 degrees.  Even though the pic uploaded from my computer correctly, it still showed up here rotated.  Don't know how to fix that.  The grain is vertical as is the split.
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#25
That being the case, could you get both halves to float freely? If so get some sharp edged clamps and glue that panel up.
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#26
You can make that profile on your table saw. 

John
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#27
Yeah. I had a door like that and I fixed it with duck tape. Mine was made in the late 1970s. Unless yours is pre WWII, it was probably made the same way. The panels are separate but they are purely decorative and do not float like a traditional door. It is time to replace.

The National Assoc of Homebuilders says that exterior doors should last about 30 years. For those of you keeping score at home, that is 1987. It might not seem like a long time to you but the door is a geezer. A new exterior door should have a better fire rating and better R values. It will also operate better.

So your door has a crack in the panel. How about the other panels? How about the other door? There are probably many places of air infiltration. And the other panels are just waiting to crack.

The duck tape worked just fine on my door for a year or two. The new door is much nicer and it tight as a drum. It was a great upgrade.
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#28
That is one extreme example of a shrinking panel!!

Try slipping a thin spatula or putty knife under the molding.  If tere is no gap then the molding is milled into the door which means its a cope and stick type construction.

In this case, I would try cleaning out the gap of all paint residue, tape off the flat side and fill with epoxy.

Trying to cut the bead off with an oscillating saw will be a mess.

Or, just replace the door.  If there is a Habitat ReStor around you can get a similar solid door quite inexpensively.
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#29
(08-02-2017, 02:10 PM)rwe2156 Wrote: That is one extreme example of a shrinking panel!!

Try slipping a thin spatula or putty knife under the molding.  If tere is no gap then the molding is milled into the door which means its a cope and stick type construction.

In this case, I would try cleaning out the gap of all paint residue, tape off the flat side and fill with epoxy.

Trying to cut the bead off with an oscillating saw will be a mess.

Or, just replace the door.  If there is a Habitat ReStor around you can get a similar solid door quite inexpensively.

If you look closely at the picture you can tell it was a cope and stick door assembled around the milled ( broken) panel 

as for the assertion you cannot remove the sticking without ruining the door the assumption is incorrect. I have successfully done this many many times. I use a router instead of a oscillating saw but that has little bearing on the fact it can be done 

removing the paint around the panel does nothing to prevent the issue at hand nor does epoxy as a filler. IME both would make a far bigger mess than removing the panel. 

Replacement is not a choice as I understand it, there is a pair of doors , why waste two doors for an issue that can be remedied in the damaged one

HTH Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#30
Well, I took the advice of several of you and decided to pull the panel out and see what could be done.  Removed the molding, and the panel was loose indicating that it never was glued in place.  Interestingly, the panel consisted of three different pieces of wood, joined together with intricate tongue and groove joints.  So I cleaned up the pieces, re-glued the split, painted the panel and original moldings (luckily could use them as I couldn't find any new with the exact same profile), waxed the edges of the panel and reinstalled.  I think it turned out pretty good, and I was lucky that the split was really between two pieces so it joined up nicely.  Thanks for all the help!
Tim


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