Can table saw wobble be corrected?
#11
Brick 
Here is what I have....an old Black and Decker enclosed motor cabinet. Cast iron top that is smooth as glass and separate controls for up/down and bevels....and a miter gauge that has no slop at all. Problem is it has some wobble.  I am posting in hopes somebody cam tell me a good way to fix it. Here are some pics....oh, the saw was free....but I'd like for it to work. It's a perfect size for me.


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"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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#12
How much wobble?

I'd start by cleaning the washers, the nut, and the mating surface on the arbor.
"Links to news stories don’t cut it."  MsNomer 3/2/24
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#13
I don't have a dial gauge set up but here is a short YouTube video indicating the wobble. 

https://youtu.be/b3TGScyPzIs
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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#14
First you need to figure out if it is the blade, the washers, or the motor flange.

The woodgears.ca site has some helpful information or machining a table saw flange in place with a stone, if it comes down to that.
"Links to news stories don’t cut it."  MsNomer 3/2/24
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#15
Id make sure everything is clean first of all. A little piece wood or buildup of pitch can cause that. Check both the blade and the mating surface on the arbor. Second, make sure there are no burs on the hole punchout of the blade. If so, file it off. I use 7-1/4 blades on my saw for certain things and every now and again I find they arent perfect and can cause issues.  

I wouldn't think there is an issue with the arbor or bearings.....but who knows maybe the arbor is bent the slightest little bit.....but it wouldnt be the first thing I would expect.

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#16
Unplug the saw, crank the blade up all the way, and carefully mark (with chalk or something else that comes off) the high spot(s) on each side of the blade.  Then loosen the arbor nut, and carefully rotate the blade 180 degrees and re-snug the nut (it should never be really tight anyway).  Then check the location of the high spots again.  If they've moved 180 degrees, it's in the arbor.  If in the same place, it's the blade.  If it's random, it's probably the bearings, but you should be able to feel that in the arbor.

That will at least tell you what needs work or replacement.  If the blade is a little out, it will simply cut a little wider kerf, which I don't consider a big deal, unless it's also vibrating.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#17
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to try some of these in the next night or two since I'm at work right now. I didn't realize that woodgears.CA was the same guy that I watch on YouTube. That rebuild he did of that old table saw is sure helpful. Thanks for the suggestions again I will report back in a day or two. thanks
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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#18
(07-30-2017, 09:59 PM)packerguy® Wrote: Id make sure everything is clean first of all. A little piece wood or buildup of pitch can cause that. Check both the blade and the mating surface on the arbor. Second, make sure there are no burs on the hole punchout of the blade. If so, file it off. I use 7-1/4 blades on my saw for certain things and every now and again I find they arent perfect and can cause issues.  

I wouldn't think there is an issue with the arbor or bearings.....but who knows maybe the arbor is bent the slightest little bit.....but it wouldnt be the first thing I would expect.

Direct drive, hobbyist quality saw.  So some of the talk about arbor and bearings isn't really germane. Mark the blade for proud spot on either side, then flop the blade. Not going to be cutting, but just checking to see if the spot is still high.  If so - blade.  Now grasp the blade, if true, and try to rattle it.  If it moves, motor bearings.   Passing both tests, check for runout due to a bent shaft.

It wasn't built for heavy use, so don't expect the world.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#19
(08-01-2017, 06:52 AM)MichaelMouse Wrote: Direct drive, hobbyist quality saw.  So some of the talk about arbor and bearings isn't really germane. Mark the blade for proud spot on either side, then flop the blade. Not going to be cutting, but just checking to see if the spot is still high.  If so - blade.  Now grasp the blade, if true, and try to rattle it.  If it moves, motor bearings.   Passing both tests, check for runout due to a bent shaft.

It wasn't built for heavy use, so don't expect the world.

Beat me to it! I would ask if you had any kickbacks or jams between the blade and fence.
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com
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#20
I certainly don't expect the world....but I do have hope that this can get me by for a while. It has some nice things about it that some really pricey saws don't.  After a while when I get a few more things done I can see about a saw with greater power if needed.  The size is great though for me.

Thanks
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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