Powermatic 66 Installation Help
#51
I had a static inverter that I lent to someone and I guess one of the caps blew.  But it worked for him for quite a while.  And it was old when I got it.  I'm always tempted to fix and use it for things that don't need a lot of power.
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#52
There is a vendor that's often recommended here that offers high quality VFDs (Teco is a popular name brand) at very good prices and excellent help with the unit. I think it's Factorymation....to all, if I got that name wrong please correct me.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#53
An annoying web page.
http://www.factorymation.com/
Wood is good. 
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#54
I settled on the VFD.

Not to seem dense. 

Is this the unit I need?

http://www.factorymation.com/CV-2003-H1

TECO 7300CV AC Drive, 3 HP, 230V 1 PH Input, 230V 3 PH Output, 10.5FLA, IP20, Frame 2 (JNTHBCBA0003AC-U)
  • 200-230VAC 1 PH, 50/60Hz (Voltage +10% to -10%, Frequency ±5%) Input
  • Sensorless Vector & V/Hz control modes
  • Integrated PLC Functions
  • Built-in PID Control 
  • 0-230V, 3 PH Output
  • 1 Analog Input (0-10V, 4-20mA, 0-20mA)
  • 1 Programmable Multi-function Analog Input (0-10V)
  • 7 Programmable Multi-function Digital Inputs
  • 1 Analog Output (0-10VDC)
  • 2 Multi-function Output Relay
  • Removable Keypad with Potentiometer
  • 4 digit, 7 segment LED display
  • 150% rated current for 1 minute
  • 200% instantaneous overcurrent
  • Electronic overload protection and stall prevention
  • Ground fault and short circuit protection
  • UL 508 / cUL / CE
  • 2 year warranty
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#55
OP--that unit is completely inadequate for this purpose due to an inappropriate enclosure and too low a rating. Talk to the supplier.
Wood is good. 
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#56
I'm out of the league on VFDs, but it's my understanding you'll have no problem running a 5HP motor off a 3 HP VFD. Lots of guys over at OWWM do just that. But that's me talking, some of the sparkys will chime in here or you could talk to the guys at Factorymation.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#57
(08-08-2017, 08:00 PM)artistwantab Wrote: I settled on the VFD.

Not to seem dense. 

Is this the unit I need?

http://www.factorymation.com/CV-2003-H1

TECO 7300CV AC Drive, 3 HP, 230V 1 PH Input, 230V 3 PH Output, 10.5FLA, IP20, Frame 2 (JNTHBCBA0003AC-U)
  • 200-230VAC 1 PH, 50/60Hz (Voltage +10% to -10%, Frequency ±5%) Input
  • Sensorless Vector & V/Hz control modes
  • Integrated PLC Functions
  • Built-in PID Control 
  • 0-230V, 3 PH Output
  • 1 Analog Input (0-10V, 4-20mA, 0-20mA)
  • 1 Programmable Multi-function Analog Input (0-10V)
  • 7 Programmable Multi-function Digital Inputs
  • 1 Analog Output (0-10VDC)
  • 2 Multi-function Output Relay
  • Removable Keypad with Potentiometer
  • 4 digit, 7 segment LED display
  • 150% rated current for 1 minute
  • 200% instantaneous overcurrent
  • Electronic overload protection and stall prevention
  • Ground fault and short circuit protection
  • UL 508 / cUL / CE
  • 2 year warranty

You don't need a vector drive unit, sensorless or otherwise.  It's a saw that will run at constant speed, and it won't have to generate constant torque at low running speeds, like a lathe.

Consider the FM50 for $100 less.  But do call FactoryMation to discuss.  The 3 hp unit is claimed to output 150% current for 1 minute, and with a nameplate FLA of 13A (at 5 hp output with precisely 230V at 60Hz mains power), that would be about 124% of the 10.5A the FM50 is rated for.  And you'd really have to try to get over 3 hp load on that motor, and unless you're ripping heavy lumber with a stock feeder, even then it would only be for short duration.  What I don't know, though, is what the no-load current is, as the increase in current is generally almost a straight line from no-load to full-load, and it's useful to know where you're starting from.

The FM50 lacks some of the inputs and outputs, and doesn't have a speed pot on the front, but you don't need any of that anyway.  Just one or two digital inputs for remote start/stop (it has two programmable digital inputs), depending on how you want to control it, and the rest is programmed - start-up time to keep max current low (across the line starting can draw 4-8 times nameplate current, so you want to limit that), and 60Hz output frequency once started so it runs at design speed.  For special jobs where you might want to slow the blade (if you'd ever actually want to do that), you can always use the up/down buttons on the face.  You'll never use reverse.  Program the max current to the max value, along with some other variables which the manual would cover, and go to work.  Put it on a disconnect of some sort so you can power it down - pulling the plug might make big sparks, which will eat it and the receptacle up.  Mount it someplace where it won't get dusty, like on the ceiling or high on the wall and run the power and start/stop control wires to the saw (my lathe is set up that way, and many folks do something similar).

http://www.factorymation.com/FM50-203-C

TECO FM50 AC Drive, 3 HP, 230V 1 / 3 PH Input, 230V 3 PH Output, 10.5FLA, IP20
  • 230V, 50/60Hz (Voltage +10% to -15%, Frequency ±5%) Input
  • 0-230V, 3 PH Output
  • 1 Analog Input (0-10V, 4-20mA, 0-20mA)
  • 2 Programmable Multi-function Inputs
  • 2 Operation Control Inputs (FWD/REV)
  • 1 Analog Output (0-10VDC)
  • 1 Multi-function Output Relay
  • 3 digit, 7 segment LED display
  • 150% rated current for 1 minute
  • 200% instantaneous overcurrent
  • Electronic overload protection and stall prevention
  • Ground fault and short circuit protection
  • UL 508 / cUL / CE
  • 2 year warranty
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#58
I will contact Factory Nation and get the info needed.

Thank you all that commented. I will let you all know how things progress.
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#59
I concur with Tom's recommendation. The OP's pictures show an incomplete motor controller, so that would have to priced into the build if one is replacing the existing 3 phase motor. The VFD gives you all that so its a one-stop shop. I'll defer to Tom as to whether the 3hp VFD is the right size and can be used with the 5 HP motor.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets. 

"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
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#60
Probably the biggest question mark is whether it can start it reasonably well. With a kVA Code letter "H", it would have a locked-rotor (starting) current of 79-89A at 230V. Extending the start time and controlling the current, it may have no problem starting it. But I would ask the vendor, and have the motor nameplate info at the ready.

Any VFD, starting any 3-phase motor, has to deal with a locked-rotor current many times higher than it's own max current, so it's hardly something that isn't done every day, but starting a 5 hp with a 3 hp drive (but at nearly no load - just belt friction, plus belt/arbor/blade inertia) is just a little more extreme.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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