1/4" Ply for veneer
#11
  
I'm kicking around the idea of using a piece of 1/4" oak ply on top of 3/4" birch ply like a veneer.  It will be for a 42"x 82" dinning room table top. 

Is this a bad idea?  What kind of glue would you use for this.  Do I need 1/4" ply on both sides of the 3/4" to prevent warping?  I really don't have the equipment or the skills to do a regular veneer job.

Do you think this will work or should I go another direction?

Thanks George
Reply
#12
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
The smart answer is, Yes, do both sides.

If the table top has a substantial apron, you might get away with doing only the top layer. 

There are many guys much smarter than who will probably chime in and give you a more definite answer.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
Reply
#13
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
George, why not just buy a sheet of oak ply. For $50 it really isn't worth the trouble or potential problems you may have with gluing the two plywood sheets together. Heck, a gallon of contact cement is $35 alone which would probably be the best way to put the two pieces together since you don't have a veneer vacuum press.
Reply
#14
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
I'm guessing you want it 1" thick???? how about using 1/2" ply (oak on top of BB) for the 2 pieces, then you wouldn't have to worry.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Reply
#15
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
(08-11-2017, 01:43 PM)Dave Diaman Wrote: George, why not just buy a sheet of oak ply. For $50 it really isn't worth the trouble or potential problems you may have with gluing the two plywood sheets together. Heck, a gallon of contact cement is $35 alone which would probably be the best way to put the two pieces together since you don't have a veneer vacuum press.

Him speak truth, KemoSabe!
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

Without the comment about the (uug) contact cement.

Smirk
A laid back southeast Florida beach bum and volunteer bikini assessor.

Wink
Reply
#16
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
(08-11-2017, 01:47 PM)fredhargis Wrote: I'm guessing you want it 1" thick???? how about using 1/2" ply (oak on top of BB) for the 2 pieces, then you wouldn't have to worry.

Fred provides a good question?????? What is your ultimate goal for thickness? If it is 3/4" then Dave gave you the best answer, if thicker, does it really require laminating together? Also does it really require the entire piece is going to need to be over 3/4" thick. 3/4" ply is also often surrounded by thicker stock so looking at it from any angle except underneath you see a thicker product.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
Reply
#17
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
Thanks for the comments. I am looking to get a top that is 1" thick. It will have a solid wood edge of 1 1/4". I like the idea of using two 1/2" pieces. One oak and one BB.

Sounds like contact cement might be the way to go for glue. Or is there something better?
George
Reply
#18
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
I think if you intend to edge it with hardwood, then using PVA (or anything that isn't contact cement) to glue the 2 pieces of ply together would be OK. Plastic resin glue would be good and give you a little more open time (as well as a little more clamp time).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Reply
#19
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
I always just use PVA glue. Because it requires a bit of glue, whatever brand (that I have heard of before) that is cheapest wins. If there is a side which won't show, I use 1" long screws into the non-show side so I can "clamp" the entire works together. After the glue is dried you can leave them in, or remove them. If it is a heavy duty item, I'll leave them in. Because you are going to edge band it, you can slightly vary the width of the edging. With that in mind once it was dry I would square the sides on the TS to make for a perfect square. No matter how hard you try to match the pieces as you glue them together, there is a bit of sliding that occurs. Cut square, those mis-matched edges go away. After you know the size of a panel you have left, you can then figure the banding width to make the panel the size you need.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
Reply
#20
  Re: 1/4" Ply for veneer by George Wells (I'm kicking around t...)
(08-12-2017, 02:44 PM)George Wells Wrote: Thanks for the comments.  I am looking to get a top that is 1" thick.  It will have a solid wood edge of 1 1/4".  I like the idea of using two 1/2" pieces.  One oak and one BB.

Problem with using Baltic Birch for one of the layers is that it usually comes in 5'x5' sheets.  You said you wanted it to be 82" long.  I would just use two sheets of 1/2" oak or one sheet of oak and anything else that comes in a 4x8 sheet.
Bob
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)