Best way to cut this?

[DaveR1]

While the method shown in the video Steven N shared is dangerous, it could be made safe with a better jig and it would do the trick quite nicely.

[daddo]

I looked for ways to make that cut with what I had since it would take a 14" round blade to make the cut in one pass for a 5"x .5" inset.

I had made a mill cutter a while back and thought I would try it on a scrap piece on the drill press and precariously setup to see what would happen.
It came out in one pass as you wanted, but my cutters capacity is 3.5" diameter (If I grind the edge of the cutter more and make a stronger relief).
 The angle of the HSS cutter body was good for the angle and left a pretty straight inset edge, other than the slight bow in the middle because the cutting edge is tilted away from the end: This can be corrected by grinding the edge as one needs it.

  [/img]

[fixtureman]

The video is very similar to the jig my FIL used. Only he clamped the first sled down and worked from the side of the saw

[ruffcutt]

https://youtu.be/eaWRjpJ5f0w

[Phil Thien]

https://youtu.be/eaWRjpJ5f0w

Hey that is clever.

[ruffcutt]

One for those with a Radial Arm Saw

https://youtu.be/nyxfRMMD7SU

[daddo]

https://youtu.be/eaWRjpJ5f0w

 Don'tcha just hate it when someone has a simple solution to a procedure you were making too difficult?

The only thing he doesn't mention is setting the angle on the saw at 19 degrees so the handle bottom is flat and not tilted- am I right?

 I have to make one of those. Shouldn't take an hour at most.

[Steve N]

While the method shown in the video Steven N shared is dangerous, it could be made safe with a better jig and it would do the trick quite nicely.

I agree Dave. Those jigs with wood on wood, especially made of pine and all that pitch do not typically move smoothly, and if you are jerky or hung up you push harder, and it's usually then it will all come apart, and flip off, go too far or something that will expose the blade. I don't see them like I used to, but Rockler was famous for a tube full of T Track, and fixtures for something crazy like 14.99, anyhow the stuff is cheap compared to a new hand. Have it move on track, which will limit side to side or flip, and clean the grooves every pass and if you wax the tracks they can run very smooth. Lots of ways to make a better mouse trap. I think that guy was going for cheap fix.

[fredhargis]

Hey that is clever.

It would be hard to come up with anything easier.

[fixtureman]

I agree Dave. Those jigs with wood on wood, especially made of pine and all that pitch do not typically move smoothly, and if you are jerky or hung up you push harder, and it's usually then it will all come apart, and flip off, go too far or something that will expose the blade. I don't see them like I used to, but Rockler was famous  for a tube full of T Track, and fixtures for something crazy like 14.99, anyhow the stuff is cheap compared to a new hand. Have it move on track, which will limit side to side or flip, and clean the grooves every pass and if you wax the tracks they can run very smooth. Lots of ways to make a better mouse trap. I think that guy was going for cheap fix.

You can use masonite for the base that will slide real nice