Sharpening impulse hardened saw
#26
Try the least destructive method first. That sounds like the Pedder and Gerd oven trick.

I use these types of saws. Not the same brand. They have thicker steel than the woodworking saws we are used to. Also, a different ppi which is easier to file. And, finally, arborists are picky about their tools--I was going to suggest a different brand, because his is stupidly over priced. I won't suggest. 

If you can pop the plastic, try the oven. I would wait til the saw is dull, however. And, the cook is gone a for few hours.
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#27
I have tried several different brands, and nothing really compares.  The only brand I haven't tried is Bahco, but they aren't much less.  I do have a Marvin saw that is pretty good, but didn't come with a scabbard so I just hang it in the garage and use it around the house.  Can't speak to longevity.  The fact that the Marvin website sells Silky saws is a little suggestive though...

When it is making money, I don't have time  for junky saws.  Nor am I intersted in wasting extra energy while climbing around trees pulling a saw that doesn't cut as well.

I have been able to find better prices on Silky (up to 40% off) thought Amazon, but not on the blades...  Well, that has always been the case, but I just checked, and the blade that fits this particular saw is $16.04.  That is about 1/3 of the price everywhere else.  Just ordered 3 of them.
Big Grin

I'll still try the Dremmel.  Maybe I'll make a video cutting with the current blade before sharpening, cutting after I try to touch it up and cutting with new blade...just to see how well I did.
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#28
The order of 3 must have triggered some autoalarms at Amazon.  Was gonna gloat/tip others off on the deal, and when I click on the item on my order summary, it now comes up at $43.95.

Does "Strike while the iron is hot" work here?
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#29
(08-19-2017, 11:58 AM)JosephP Wrote: I have tried several different brands, and nothing really compares.  The only brand I haven't tried is Bahco, but they aren't much less.  I do have a Marvin saw that is pretty good, but didn't come with a scabbard so I just hang it in the garage and use it around the house.  Can't speak to longevity.  The fact that the Marvin website sells Silky saws is a little suggestive though...

When it is making money, I don't have time  for junky saws.  Nor am I intersted in wasting extra energy while climbing around trees pulling a saw that doesn't cut as well.

I have been able to find better prices on Silky (up to 40% off) thought Amazon, but not on the blades...  Well, that has always been the case, but I just checked, and the blade that fits this particular saw is $16.04.  That is about 1/3 of the price everywhere else.  Just ordered 3 of them.
Big Grin

I'll still try the Dremmel.  Maybe I'll make a video cutting with the current blade before sharpening, cutting after I try to touch it up and cutting with new blade...just to see how well I did.
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My advice is to stay away from grinding on the cutting face..I think you will see "shiny" tips on each tooth...They are where the tooth is dull..Remove that shiny tip while maintaining the same angle and you're good to go..You do not need to grind deep into the gullet. It should not take more than ~2 seconds on each tooth.Practice on a saw that is really dull....The gullet's function is just to "store" the sawdust until it exits the work...I would not doubt that you can get two sharpening at least from each saw and each time restoring the original {if not better}  cutting action than when it was new. The sharpened teeth should be so sharp that your fingerprints "snag" when rubbing your finger across them.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
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#30
Update:  I finally gave it a try.  I used the tiny sanding discs for the Dremmel.  I think it did OK.  Probably will do good with practice.

Just for kicks, I tried cutting 2 sticks.  1 was 1.25" the other was about 2.25".  I used existing blade.  Existing blade after sharpening.  New blade.  And just for comparison, I also used the Sugoi model saw...a bigger/more aggressive saw.  It has been several hundred cuts ago I sharpened that.  I ran the file across each surface 1 stroke just to touch it up a bit.  Here is # of pulls it too cut through each piece:

Tsurugi well-used blade:
small piece = 1.5 pulls
larger piece = 5.5 pulls

Tsurugi after sharpening:
small piece = 1.2 pulls (1 didn't quite do it...was fer close)
larger piece = 4.5 pulls

Tsurugi new blade:
small piece = 1 pull
larger piece = 3.5 pulls

Sugoi touched-up blade:
small piece = 1 pull
larger piece = 2.2 pulls

I'll use the sharpened blade out and about for a while and decide if it is better than it was.  If so, I'll probably run over it one more time just to see if I can get it even better.  If not, I am thrilled that I got the new blades for about 35% of "normal" cost and will use those.
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