What to finish a cradle with

[tomconn42]

I'm building a cradle out of red oak, I've always used multiple coats of Minwax poly before, but I'm concerned about any toxicity. The cradle will be finished at least a month before it is needed. I planned to use boiled linseed oil, and then multiple costs of Minwax poly. Any advice ? Thanks, tomconn.

[jteneyck]

I'm building a cradle out of red oak, I've always used multiple coats of Minwax poly before, but I'm concerned about any toxicity. The cradle will be finished at least a month before it is needed. I planned to use boiled linseed oil, and then multiple costs of Minwax poly. Any advice ? Thanks, tomconn.

It is often claimed that any finish sold in the US is non-toxic once cured.  No clue if it's true, however.  I do know that BLO contains metallic driers that I would not want to ingest, but that shellac is non-toxic.

BLO is doing nothing of value for you - I would leave it out. 

Shellac is non-toxic.  Tried and True products are claimed to be food safe.  Some other new (or new to me anyway) products like Osmo Oil also are claimed to be non-toxic.  

John

[Cooler]

Shellac is non-toxic. 

I second shellac.  Every M & M  and every Raisinet you've ever eaten has been covered with shellac.  It is perfectly safe.

It brushes on nicely and dries in 30 minutes. It offers excellent adhesion and can be top coated any time as long as you've never applied any wax or silicone products. Three light coats would look nice.  


http://gentleworld.org/shellac-food-glaze/

Many people may not be aware that the glaze that covers some of their favorite products – including vitamins, pharmaceuticals, candy and even some fruit – may actually be made from shellac; a resin from the secretions of the female lac insect.

When used in food and confections, shellac has the food additive number E904, and is described on food labels as ‘confectioner’s glaze’, ‘confectioner’s resin’, ‘resinous glaze’, ‘candy glaze’, ‘pure food glaze’ and ‘natural glaze’.
The main uses of shellac in confectionery are to do with coating chocolate goods, such as candy-covered nuts and raisins, and similar products. But what many people may not realize is that it’s also used as a coating on some nutritional supplements, medicines, fruit, and even coffee beans.

[Roly]

I'm building a cradle out of red oak, I've always used multiple coats of Minwax poly before, but I'm concerned about any toxicity. The cradle will be finished at least a month before it is needed. I planned to use boiled linseed oil, and then multiple costs of Minwax poly. Any advice ? Thanks, tomconn.

While all the qualities of shellac mentioned are true, many cleaning products will ruin a shellac finish.   Ammonia will destroy shellac.   I don't see a toxicity problem with any of the clear finishes, BLO ?   Roly

[Bill Wilson]

It is often claimed that any finish sold in the US is non-toxic once cured.  No clue if it's true, however.  I do know that BLO contains metallic driers that I would not want to ingest, but that shellac is non-toxic.


John

I believe the above statement regarding cured finishes being non-toxic has been put in print by both Flexner and Jewitt in their respective finishing books.   IIRC, they stated that it has been so since the 70's.  While I've never seen or read anything definitive, released by the appropriate government authority responsible for regulating such things, the concern about toxic finishes still seems to hold on pretty tenaciously. 

Is the concern over toxic finishes still an issue open for debate or is it a myth that needs to be put to rest?

[jteneyck]

I believe the above statement regarding cured finishes being non-toxic has been put in print by both Flexner and Jewitt in their respective finishing books.   IIRC, they stated that it has been so since the 70's.  While I've never seen or read anything definitive, released by the appropriate government authority responsible for regulating such things, the concern about toxic finishes still seems to hold on pretty tenaciously. 

Is the concern over toxic finishes still an issue open for debate or is it a myth that needs to be put to rest?

I've read where Flexner said all finishes sold in the US since the 70's are non toxic once cured, but don't know the basis of where he got his information.  There are so many chemicals used in finishes that it's a little hard to believe they are all safe for ingestion.  Even shellac shouldn't get a free ride unless you use the same stuff that is approved for food use.  Regular shellac that we buy at the BORG ain't the same purity.   

I personally have no concerns about cured finish toxicity.  I don't plan on chewing anything I put finish on and I don't make toys, cradles, etc. for kids who might.  If I did, however, I'd be looking a lot harder at this subject, and not just accepting statements without knowing the basis from which they come.  As a minimum, I would want to see a statement from the company selling the finish that it is non-toxic, food safe, etc. 

Maybe I'm just not informed.  Certainly possible.  

John

[Cooler]

Here is the FDA approved list of components for finishes.  You will have to get the MSDS sheet for the finish in question and see if the components are on this list to be certain that it is FDA approved.  Or if the manufacturer certifies that all the components of the finish are FDA approved for food contact.

Note:  This list is for food contact, not for human consumption.

https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/c...fr=175.300

Tried and True makes a big deal about it being an all natural product.  I doubt it is as durable as shellac:

https://www.bellalunatoys.com/products/t...inish-pint

And here is the FDA's GRAS list (Generally Regarded As Safe  --but not fully tested)

[Bill Wilson]

I've read where Flexner said all finishes sold in the US since the 70's are non toxic once cured, but don't know the basis of where he got his information.  There are so many chemicals used in finishes that it's a little hard to believe they are all safe for ingestion.  Even shellac shouldn't get a free ride unless you use the same stuff that is approved for food use.  Regular shellac that we buy at the BORG ain't the same purity.   

I personally have no concerns about cured finish toxicity.  I don't plan on chewing anything I put finish on and I don't make toys, cradles, etc. for kids who might.  If I did, however, I'd be looking a lot harder at this subject, and not just accepting statements without knowing the basis from which they come.  As a minimum, I would want to see a statement from the company selling the finish that it is non-toxic, food safe, etc. 

Maybe I'm just not informed.  Certainly possible.  

John

I'm just really curious, because I keep seeing this question posed on various WW'ing sites and I just presumed that if the Jewitt/Flexner statements were true, that 40 years would be long enough to dispel any fear. 

I think the issue may be the ingesting part.  As was noted, the finishes are safe for food contact.  Actually consuming the finish, while seemingly difficult to do in any quantity that would pose any risk, may be at the root of the concern. 

I've also read somewhere that the nasty stuff in finishes either flashes off in the curing process (solvents) or becomes inert once it is dry.  I do agree that it would be nice to see a definitive statement, made by someone in a position to speak authoritatively on the subject.

[tomconn42]

Thanks for all the advice. I see I have a lot off research to do. My expectant granddaughter is an accomplished researcher, and I'd better have answers for her if questioned about the finish.

[Cooler]

Thanks for all the advice. I see I have a lot off research to do. My expectant granddaughter is an accomplished researcher, and I'd better have answers for her if questioned about the finish.

There appears to be two types of "safe" finishes.

The first type is "safe for food contact", which is not what I think you want.  This is OK if all the baby does is lick the finish.

The second type is "safe for consumption".  A teething baby could consume some small amount of finish.  That is why I suggested shellac, though a cutting board penetrating finish would be fine too.