Thickness of veneer on MDF?

[smithgl12]

That glue won't work with 1/8" thick veneer.  It's for thin commercial veneer where the heat can easily transfer through. 

John


Ahhh...Good point John. Then I would argue for using commercial veneer. Especially for something like speaker that get handled with kid-gloves. Plus you can use some pretty awesome wood species.

[Richard D.]

Speakers are a specialized form of woodworking rarely posted about on this forum. In other words....you are asking on the wrong forum. Google, "loudspeaker forum" for starters.

[GaryMc]

I am a novice when it comes to veneering, but have used the Better Bond before on smaller items with good luck.  I'm beginning to rethink using thicker veneer and go with the commercial stuff on 3/4" MDF.  Sure would be simpler to build the boxes first, then veneer the exposed sides/top.  And no seams!  And as pointed out, an endless variety of species possible.

And BTW, I have polled the audio crowd regarding enclosure volume, configuration, driver placement, etc., versus sound quality - many have done similar projects previously with good success, and some are experts in all things Bozak.  I just did not trust the nerds to know much about the stability of a wood-MDF laminate.

[fredhargis]

I'd love to see them once they are finished.

[GaryMc]

For speakers, I can't recommend this stuff, Better Bond Heat Lock,  more. I used it over decade ago 2006 and still holding strong, I built Adire Audio 281 towers and center channel of similar dimensions. 3/4 MDF, glued and screwed, butt joints. I covered in quartersawn Makore veneer. Rolled it on both surfaces, let it dry, position, iron it on. I used a razor to flush trim. I agonized similarly about contact cement, wood glues, hide glue, UF, veneer bagging. Don't over think it. This stuff felt so easy to use it was criminal. No issues with contact cement and positioning headaches while trying to hold it above the surface of a large panel. Get the veneer glue roller too. worth it.

Also the Jasper 200 circle cutting jig is worth the $$ too IMO. You can plunge a circular recess then cut the circle out. I got perfect results everytime. Good luck. Speaker building is fun!

Pics

What is your opinion on whether the Heat Lock would work on 3/64" wood-backed veneer (could get what I need from Bob Morgan Veneer Supplies, who has provided some great raw and paper-backed veneer previously).  I have only used the adhesive on thin paper-backed material before, with good results.

Reason I am thinking the thicker veneer material is to reduce possible telegraphing of rough substrate surfaces through the surface layer.  I found some good-quality OSB that could serve as the base instead of MDF, with some advantages such as screw-holding ability and reduced airborne dust during milling.  It is made of finer strands, is 23/64" thick, and so is more substantial and smoother than the underlayment-type stuff, but of course has a rougher surface than MDF.  It looks a lot like the material used in 1970 for the backs of my Bozaks (see pic of the Bozak tag above).