glue squeeze out

[DarrellC]

How do you handle squeeze out? I am gluing up a table top. 3'x7'. 6 boards. I have always just wiped the joint with a wet/damp rag. some say to leave it and scrape it off later. your thoughts.

[Carl Grover]

I've wiped the glue off with a damp sponge. You can also let it set up til the glue is drier and rubbery, then scrape it off before it's fully cured which is likely a better idea.


carl

[fredhargis]

I do the rubbery thing, using a paint scraper to remove it.

[AHill]

How do you handle squeeze out? I am gluing up a table top. 3'x7'. 6 boards. I have always just wiped the joint with a wet/damp rag. some say to leave it and scrape it off later. your thoughts.

Glue squeezeout if inevitable, but it can be minimized by careful application to begin with.  I think New Yankee Workshop and This Old House have taught too many bad habits by their slathering on glue without regard to the additional work cleanup takes.  Maybe OK for construction, but not OK for furniture making.  I mostly use scrapers when the glue gets rubbery.  The problem with a damp rag is you often don't get it all, and you won't find out until it's time to put the finish on.  Another trick is using blue painter's tape along the edges where the squeezout would happen.  Then just remove the blue tape.

[rwe2156]

How do you handle squeeze out? I am gluing up a table top. 3'x7'. 6 boards. I have always just wiped the joint with a wet/damp rag. some say to leave it and scrape it off later. your thoughts.

Do not ever scrape off dry glue you will risk tearing out the grain and certain woods.

You can do the "let it get rubbery" thing and peel it off, but you have to allow so much time I usually forget.


On a panel glue up I use a putty knife to scrape off the bead prior to wiping with a damp rag.  Follow up with a freshly moistened new rag and dry off any excess water with a dry rag.

Use a soft bristle toothbrush to get in corners followed by a damp rag wrapped around a putty knife.

[fredhargis]

For the corners another trick would be to take a soda straw (I use the ones from Taco Bell, they seem a little more stiff) and cut a 45˚ angle on the end with a pair of scissors. Then use the pointy end to scrape the glue out of the corners, this one works better if the glue is fresh. The end of the straw will become unusable fairly quickly, so keep the scissors handy.

[Cooler]

When I was a picture framer working with pre-finished moldings I just wiped it with a damp rag until it looked clean.

But as a wood worker I am more fastidious.  Any residual glue will make staining a mess.  I  usually wipe it twice first with a damp rag, and then again with a clean damp rag.

[JGrout]

Scrape it within an hour and you will be just fine. 

Even if you do not get it off quick enough a beater chisel sharpened enough to remove the hard beads will work just fine.

[DaveR1]

I've used the following method for many years and it's always worked well.

I dry clamp the pieces and rub a bar of paraffin along the joints making sure to cover the wood on both sides. It doesn't need to be a very wide smath of paraffin. Then I go ahead and glue the pieces together and let the squeeze out form little beads where it will.. The little bit of squeeze sits on the paraffin and can't soak into the wood. A few swipes with a card scraper remove the dried glue and the paraffin. If you're using an oil based finish, it will dissolve any remaining paraffin but yu can also wipe it down with mineral spirits before applying any finish. The mineral spirits will help you confirm you didn't miss any spots with the paraffin, too.

[fredhargis]

I've never heard that Dave, I'll have to give it a try!