Slab table base
#21
Here is the almost final product. The pieces are all 2 1/4" walnut. I used dowels for attaching everything. Now I just have to figure out how to attach the top. That's the bottom side of the slab in the background. I have just started working on cleaning up the edges and doing some epoxy to stabilize some pieces.


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#22
Very cool. Looks great. Question. How far over will the slab hang on the ends? Will the ends of the base interfere with the chairs being pushed in when not in use?
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#23
(10-16-2017, 08:51 AM)misterstockwell Wrote: Here is the almost final product. The pieces are all 2 1/4" walnut. I used dowels for attaching everything. Now I just have to figure out how to attach the top. That's the bottom side of the slab in the background. I have just started working on cleaning up the edges and doing some epoxy to stabilize some pieces.

the simplest solution would be a few lag screws in the center stretcher three would do it and be one more than necessary 

The top is so thick it would not require any more than enough to hold it if you had to move it a bit 

Edit to add: if you really feel that is not enough to hold it to your satisfaction  use z clips either shop made or bought around the perimeter they will hold the top more than adequately

[Image: 70-140.jpg]

[Image: Diane%2527s+Work+Table+-+14.jpg]

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#24
(10-16-2017, 09:05 AM)Wipedout Wrote: Very cool. Looks great. Question. How far over will the slab hang on the ends?  Will the ends of the base interfere with the chairs being pushed in when not in use?

The slab will hang over a foot on each end(base is 8' total length, slab is 10'). We tried some chairs with the "prototype" we saw in the store and it worked fine.
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#25
(10-16-2017, 09:14 AM)JGrout Wrote: the simplest solution would be a few lag screws in the center stretcher three would do it and be one more than necessary 

The top is so thick it would not require any more than enough to hold it if you had to move it a bit 

Edit to add: if you really feel that is not enough to hold it to your satisfaction  use z clips either shop made or bought around the perimeter they will hold the top more than adequately

[Image: 70-140.jpg]

[Image: Diane%2527s+Work+Table+-+14.jpg]

Joe

Thanks Joe.
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#26
(10-16-2017, 09:40 AM)misterstockwell Wrote: The slab will hang over a foot on each end(base is 8' total length, slab is 10'). We tried some chairs with the "prototype" we saw in the store and it worked fine.

Cool - I was just wondering because I may have made that mistake on my table and my wife still mentions it ....
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#27
(10-16-2017, 10:07 AM)Wipedout Wrote: Cool - I was just wondering because I may have made that mistake on my table and my wife still mentions it ....

I did a pre-emptive strike on that wife factor--she picked the style of the base and she tested the chairs. I am off the hook!
Smile
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#28
(10-16-2017, 08:51 AM)misterstockwell Wrote: Here is the almost final product. The pieces are all 2 1/4" walnut. I used dowels for attaching everything. Now I just have to figure out how to attach the top. That's the bottom side of the slab in the background. I have just started working on cleaning up the edges and doing some epoxy to stabilize some pieces.

Great looking top.

So far as the base goes, I have always tried to make them disappear to feature the top. 

Make structurally sound of course but minimalistic in size -- even to dying black to "make it go away" and allow the featured top to float.

My two cents!


Smile

EDIT: Something like this I built was featured years ago in Fine Woodworking Biennial Design Book II, as I remember. Just look for the guy from Delray Beach, FL.
A laid back southeast Florida beach bum and volunteer bikini assessor.


Wink
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#29
(09-02-2017, 01:39 PM)misterstockwell Wrote: I have a 10' Slab of wenge that will be our new dining table. My wife and I have looked at endless table bases and I thought she was going to want an iron base. Surprisingly, she came home from restoration hardware with pictures of the exact(wooden) base she wanted me to build for our Slab.  I have thick walnut to use for the pieces, so it looks like a great idea! Anyway, I attached pics of the RH table. The wood there is 1 3/4" thick and 4" wide. It is attached with some little brackets with no accommodation for wood movement. I would not be comfortable with that. What's a better way? I had thought of using 3 stretchers directly  beneath the Slab vs. The single one in this table. I could then connect the stretchers horizontally, route out slots, and screw into threaded inserts in the table base. Also thought of a metal plate attached to the leg portions and inset into the Slab with slots to allow for movement. I welcome any suggestions. Thanks

I'm currently building this one, quite challenging. 

I'm using hanger bolts to attach the base to the slab, very solid fastener, easy to disassemble / re-assemble.  

[Image: 37745422331_970be2e7bc_k.jpg] 

[Image: Zvra2D]
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#30
(10-16-2017, 03:48 PM)FloridaRetiree Wrote: Great looking top.

So far as the base goes, I have always tried to make them disappear to feature the top. 

Make structurally sound of course but minimalistic in size -- even to dying black to "make it go away" and allow the featured top to float.

My two cents!


Smile

EDIT:  Something like this I built was featured years ago in Fine Woodworking Biennial Design Book II, as I remember.  Just look for the guy from Delray Beach, FL.

Thanks for the subtle burn on my base
Confused  In my opinion, the wood for this base is just as beautiful as the top--maybe moreso with all the figuring in the walnut. I would never want to "make it go away. "
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