Table Top Attachment Help
#8
Hey,

I'm looking at making table similar to this one. The plans online have you secure the base to the top by glue and pocket holes. After looking further into it, I've read a lot about that being a bad idea because of wood movement and later splitting. So what method would be the best? Would putting figure 8 fasteners along the 2x4's work? Or z clips?  If so where along the base would I put the fasteners?  Along both sides?  Pictures of both finished table and what the base will look like are attached.

Also, would frame around the top be a bad idea for the same reasons?


Thanks!


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#9
(09-13-2017, 04:15 PM)Columbiaguy Wrote: Hey,

I'm looking at making table similar to this one. The plans online have you secure the base to the top by glue and pocket holes. After looking further into it, I've read a lot about that being a bad idea because of wood movement and later splitting. So what method would be the best? Would putting figure 8 fasteners along the 2x4's work? Or z clips?  If so where along the base would I put the fasteners?  Along both sides?  Pictures of both finished table and what the base will look like are attached.

Also, would frame around the top be a bad idea for the same reasons?


Thanks!

Z clips will work fine just make a slot down the inside edge of the long 2x's and attach the clips as needed. You could put a screw in the end piece of each leg set and it would not hurt anything there 

Framing the top is OK as long as you make allowances for it to move That involves some joinery that allows movement on the ends. I have done sliding dovetails, stub tenons and mortises that are undersized and pinned from underneath and they both work.  Caveat: it is a lot of exacting work. 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#10
(09-13-2017, 05:46 PM)JGrout Wrote: Z clips will work fine just make a slot down the inside edge of the long 2x's and attach the clips as needed. You could put a screw in the end piece of each leg set and it would not hurt anything there 

Framing the top is OK as long as you make allowances for it to move That involves some joinery that allows movement on the ends. I have done sliding dovetails, stub tenons and mortises that are undersized and pinned from underneath and they both work.  Caveat: it is a lot of exacting work. 

Joe

Ok, thanks for you help!  I apologize for my additional questions.  I am new to this and don't want to mess it up.  So looking at follow up attached picture.  Cut a slot down the 2x4's referenced by red in the pic and use z clips and just a wood screw on the ends (referenced by green)?  
Would pocket screws along green be ok also?
What is best way to cut the slots, with table saw?  Also is there a standard or best distance from edge, depth, saw blade to use to cut the slot?
Will this be secure enough to lift table by the top if having to move it around?

I believe I will hold off on framing now.  Down the road, I might be brave enough to try those methods.

Thanks again for you help!


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#11
(09-14-2017, 08:46 AM)Columbiaguy Wrote: Ok, thanks for you help!  I apologize for my additional questions.  I am new to this and don't want to mess it up.  So looking at follow up attached picture.  Cut a slot down the 2x4's referenced by red in the pic and use z clips and just a wood screw on the ends (referenced by green)?  
Would pocket screws along green be ok also?
What is best way to cut the slots, with table saw?  Also is there a standard or best distance from edge, depth, saw blade to use to cut the slot?
Will this be secure enough to lift table by the top if having to move it around?

I believe I will hold off on framing now.  Down the road, I might be brave enough to try those methods.

Thanks again for you help!

Thought of another question related to this.  Could I do z clips along both boards (red and green) or would that contradict each other?

Thanks!
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#12
(09-14-2017, 08:46 AM)Columbiaguy Wrote: Ok, thanks for you help!  I apologize for my additional questions.  I am new to this and don't want to mess it up.  So looking at follow up attached picture.  Cut a slot down the 2x4's referenced by red in the pic and use z clips and just a wood screw on the ends (referenced by green)?  Yes that is the way to accomplish the task 
Would pocket screws along green be ok also? You will only need one on the green areas maybe two the screws do not really matter here as the top can move both directions from the center 
What is best way to cut the slots, with table saw? That is one way I prefer a slot cutter in a router but if the top 2x is removable at this time the TS will work fine Also is there a standard or best distance from edge, depth, saw blade to use to cut the slot? The distances are determined by the Z clips you want the slot to be just about the thickness of the clip to assure when you screw it down it pulls tight in the slot  That still allows the top to move and the clip to hold securely
Will this be secure enough to lift table by the top if having to move it around? Yes 

I believe I will hold off on framing now.  Down the road, I might be brave enough to try those methods.

Thanks again for you help!

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#13
This article is interesting:  (There is more than one way to skin a cat)

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge/...letop.html

17 ways to fasten a tabletop
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#14
I've used Z clips before with good success. If you have a biscuit cutter you may want to use that for cutting the slots where you want to use the clips.
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