Help setting up a spiral head in planer?

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I'm not missing that point.

My problem is *finding* that point using measuring tools that aren't rigid.

I can't rely on the diameter of the head because I don't know the tolerances it was cut at *and* it isn't a round cylinder.

So I figured out another method. I cut a block of wood to fit under and slowly raised the bed, spinning the head slightly until a cutter at one end contracted the block. Then I moved it across the head and adjusted the table until that cutter hit in the same place.

Then used the block to set the pressure bar.

Then cut another block that is 1/32" shorter to set the rollers.

Let's hope it works!

[JGrout]

I'm not missing that point. 

My problem is *finding* that point using measuring tools that aren't rigid. 

UH what pray tell are you using to do the measuring with 

A simple gauge block and a feeler gauge are about as static a measuring system as there is You really need to get past the whole I have to measure to a spiral chip and use the solid round block of steel that carries all those little chips That is you first point of reference  the second one is the table itself 

and that is is the one you make adjustments to 

It is really too bad that you did not make all the adjustments to the planer _before_ you took out the old head , you would not be so lost right now

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

What adjustments would I make?

The cutter radius in the new head is slightly different from the old; the old adjustments wouldn't work.

To do the measuring I'm using a method taught to me years ago -- a dial indicator mounted on a block of wood.

Works great for straight knives. A bit difficult for spiral cutters.

[JGrout]

What adjustments would I make?

The cutter radius in the new head is slightly different from the old; the old adjustments wouldn't work.

To do the measuring I'm using a method taught to me years ago -- a dial indicator mounted on a block of wood.

Works great for straight knives.  A bit difficult for spiral cutters.

And therein lays the issue 

Tell you what why don;t you just remove every single chip from the head and use the body like I have suggested like a dozen times now  if you don't have a cutting edge to measure to you must measure off the head. 

Secondly A DI is not the measuring device to use to set a table parallel to the head............ the block and a feeler gauge is much simpler and the chance of making an error is like a thousandth or two depending on how you push the feelers in place.... A DI is not in this case the correct tool for the job.... It will work just badly

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Yeah, once the solid block idea hit, setting the table, chip breaker, and hold down bar was easy. Both the chip breaker and hold down bar are perfect, I think, as any lower and the wood jams in the planer.

I'm still getting snipe at both ends. The tiniest bit at the trailing end, which I might be able to live with. A bit more snipe at the leading edge, though. It's not terrible but I'd like to get it closer to gone.

So a little more work to go.

Thanks for helping!

[Stwood_]

Always measure off the head

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I'm not sure what that means.

[JGrout]

Yeah, once the solid block idea hit, setting the table, chip breaker, and hold down bar was easy.  Both the chip breaker and hold down bar are perfect, I think, as any lower and the wood jams in the planer.

I'm still getting snipe at both ends.  The tiniest bit at the trailing end, which I might be able to live with.  A bit more snipe at the leading edge, though.  It's not terrible but I'd like to get it closer to gone.

So a little more work to go.

Thanks for helping!

you are welcome 

One thing about your snipe issue is now you really can tune the tables to eliminate the last of the snipe by just adding shims 

Joe

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Shimming under the table gets rid of sniping? How?

[JGrout]

Shimming under the table gets rid of sniping?  How?

lowers the table rollers 
well I may not have said it correctly you may have to remove shims under  the table rollers 

It has been too long since I worked on a 100 so things here are a bit fuzzy 

Joe