Outdoor furniture screws?
#20
(09-23-2017, 05:11 PM)FloridaRetiree Wrote: Down heah


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#21
I use kreg bluekote and kreg stainless. I like them both but I plan to try the spax as well.


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#22
Mike you'll love Spax. PHI or square drive combo, most with real deal self starting tips, never split wood, so no need for a pilot hole, go in slick, zip, zip, zip. I have no count on the thousands I have used, and never a single cam out, or a broken screw. Menards has a good selection.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

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#23
(09-23-2017, 01:18 PM)daddo Wrote: Unless you're using treated lumber coated deck screws will work fine. I also use the coated construction screws.  I have no problem with stainless but it is an unnecessary expense.
Screws and TBII glue won't fail you.  I have an sacrificial experimental Adirondack chair outside in the cold/hot/rainy/stormy weather for over 3 years now- no failing problems. Even the finish is fine.  A few small limbs have fallen on it.
 Just good old pine. Thinned rubbed on latex paint and 3 coats clear poly.

I made my first set of A chairs out of cypress, unfinished, and they lasted about 15 years before issues started to develop. My second set was pine, primed and painted with white exterior house paint before assembly then a light coat of paint each season on the exposed surfaces to keep em fresh. I did use 5/4stock for the legs, which improved stability for my fat relatives. After 10 years they look brand new. Oh, and used coated deck screws which have held up fine.
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#24
(09-24-2017, 02:11 PM)Steve N Wrote:
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Don't I wish.  He successfully owned a couple beer distributorships as I remember.

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#25
The tensile strength (pull strength) of carbon steel is marginally greater than stainless steel, however the shear strength of stainless steel is notably less than carbon steel.

What that means is that it is easier to snap the head off of a stainless steel screw than a carbon steel screw, but once installed there is little difference in strength.  

So pre-drilling in hard woods is a good idea with stainless steel fasteners.  But the finished product will be essentially just as strong using stainless steel fasteners as using carbon steel fasteners.

I would pre-drill and use stainless steel fasteners.
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#26
I prefer square head or torx drives, regardless of the material it is made from.  Also, consider that trim screws might be preferred for some applications.  But not ones where the head is required to hold the pieces together. But where the trim screws are suitable they make a good choice.  Once driven below the surface and the hole is filled, corrosion is minimized.  You might not need stainless steel for all of those applications.

Pre-drill and countersink.  This will go a long way towards preventing broken screws.
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#27
(09-22-2017, 03:36 PM)DaveBozeman Wrote: What's the best type of screws for outdoor furniture?  for things like Adirondack chairs

I've read posts that:
stainless is best
stainless are weak
deck screws
coated deck screws?

tia.. Dave

The older pressure treated lumber tended to eat some of the stainlesses like candy. If you are buying SS screws in the big box stores, there is probably no way to know which stainless was used. If they stick to a magnet, then they are probably 400-series.

I haven't tried them on the newer pressure-treat.

For most outdoor furniture, my personal favorite is bronze, but it can be hard to come by unless you have a good marine-supply store in the area.
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#28
(10-11-2021, 05:27 PM)jesscaper Wrote: Stainless steel screws will quickly solve the problem. I always use them when I am engaged in constructions that may be affected by moisture. However, for garden furniture, I found an alternative for myself - wicker furniture. It is light, does not take up much space, and does not deteriorate so quickly.
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By the way, about nails. Have you tried using hot nails or glue? I've heard that they're also a good fit when furniture can be exposed to water.

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