Worksharp 3000
#13
For primary bevels, I find a grinder much faster than a WS.  One other advantage of the grinder over WS is you get a concave grind, which allows you to freehand honing without using a guide easier, since your resulting grind has two edges that make contact with the stone.  For wider blades, I wonder how one keeps a square grind with the WS when the outside of the wheel is traveling much faster than the inside (feet per second, not RPMs).  I would think the only way to overcome that is by differential pressure on the edge while using the WS.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#14
(09-27-2017, 06:28 AM)AgGEM Wrote: Your thoughts on the Worksharp?

I had all the stones after scary sharp and I could get a good edge but it took a while. I was at Popular Woodworking back when, and both Glen Huey, and Bob Lang were using the Worksharp to sharpen their chisles. I tried it, bought one immediately,. and have never considered anything else since. A member who I don't see here any more tried my chisels, and immediately bought one. Very fast, you can adjust for a primary, or secondary grind, and each and every tool will be exactly the same. They just don't have anywhere to go, except where you want them to be for the ultimate in sharp.

If you do buy one, using 1/2" MDF you can make a bunch of really cheap disks for your paper, one for each grit, progressing up. To buy the BREAKABLE glass ones are 29 bux each. Pack of paper is also ridiculous, and you only get a few sheets. I think of them like a tool, or utility that gives you the item at a low cost, then they gouge you on accessories that you could consume quickly if you did much work.

For regular grits I buy 6" PSA paper "No Hole" From Supergrit

For the freaky high grits I buy 6" No hole PSA from SISWEB


An old Woodnet post on this subject.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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