Veneer Depth for Table Top Banding
#9
I’m starting to work on a small table top roughly 16” x 20”.  I am going to inlay a border (1 1/2" wide) around the outer edge.  The veneer for the border is thin (0.020”).  My question is how deep would you inset the veneer?  How much above the table top do you like to leave the veneer for cleanup – 0.002”?  0.005”?  more?  If the veneer was thicker I wouldn’t be as concerned.  Most likely I will use a card scraper and an apron plane to clean up with.  Any suggestions or experience would be helpful.
 
Lonnie
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#10
(09-30-2017, 04:20 PM)mike4244 Wrote: I would try for flush, .020 is only about 1/64 ". Actually .015 is 1/64". Try a dado on scrap, if it is a small amount too low then glue a small piece in for a test. Any height flush or below flush will work, above flush no good.
mike
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#11
(09-29-2017, 09:52 PM)Mr Eddie Wrote: I’m starting to work on a small table top roughly 16” x 20”.  I am going to inlay a border (1 1/2" wide) around the outer edge.  The veneer for the border is thin (0.020”).  My question is how deep would you inset the veneer?  How much above the table top do you like to leave the veneer for cleanup – 0.002”?  0.005”?  more?  If the veneer was thicker I wouldn’t be as concerned.  Most likely I will use a card scraper and an apron plane to clean up with.  Any suggestions or experience would be helpful.
 
Lonnie

0.020" is more than you think. As suggested above, set up a test piece and mill your groove, then test with your inlay. It only needs to be a couple thou above the table surface for scraping smooth, but remember that it is highly unlikely that your groove will be exactly the same depth all around the table.

You also have the option of bonding your inlay to some scrap veneer to thicken it a bit, but the inlay you propose is very doable.
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
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#12
My experience is more on guitar inlays, and remember glue takes up a few thousands.  You are balancing being too low and needing to sand background to get to flush - against the risk of too thin of inlay in substrate and sanding through your inlay or leaving vulnerable inlay.  I use test piece and make sure I am flush or just barely proud by feel with dry fit on test piece. (if I were to measure (which I normally don't)) I would guess 0-2 thousands.  If it is thicker inlay then I would leave prouder and scrape flush.  Usually safer to leave bit proud, but less margin with your really thin veneer.   Ray
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#13
What is the substrate, solid wood? With a border that wide on a small top, I'd be inclined to make the entire top veneer. Solid wood with a wide border is problematic.
RD
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#14
(10-01-2017, 06:08 PM)Richard D. Wrote: What is the substrate, solid wood? With a border that wide on a small top, I'd be inclined to make the entire top veneer. Solid wood with a wide border is problematic.

Richard,
The substrate is mahogany about an inch thick.  What kind of problems have you encountered?  Do you think the top will move too much and cause the inlay to pull apart?  The top isn't too large so I figured it would be pretty stable.
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#15
If the top is solid set the inlay and bring the top to the inlay  you have lots to work with there 

KIS
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#16
Quote:Do you think the top will move too much and cause the inlay to pull apart?
Eventually yes. Impossible to say in how long and glue is better than it was 50 years ago but from what little I know about wood movement, it'll eventually fail. You already suspected it in your question.
RD
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