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(10-03-2017, 02:56 PM)Cooler Wrote: I would use the Johns Manville foam backerboard in any event. The foam is easier to cut (with a utility knife), and has to have some insulation value. You probably could afford to lose a good inch of the tub top against the wall and put in 3/4" foam insulation under the backer board.
I am in the middle of a remodel too (and my cast iron tub is also that wonderful shade of blue). I had to decide, do I break out the cast iron tube and put in a new acrylic one? Or do I have a professional apply that same acrylic finish over the old cast iron tub. I'm going to have a pro do the finishing.
This from Google:
The average life span of a refinished bathtub (automotive paint) is 1 to 3 years depending on use. High solids aliphatic polyurethane or aliphatic acrylic urethane coatings are typically used on commercial aircraft and when applied properly onto bathtubs and ceramic tile will last up to 10 years.
A 10 years life span from $300.00 worth of refinishing sounds fine to me. This is in a rarely used guest bathroom and I can probably expect more than twice that life span. What isn't fine is leaving it blue.
I'll go find Johns Manville foam backerboard to use. As for the blue tub, my mom wanted me to rip it out but I told her it could be reglazed to make it white. She was/is tired of the blue.
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(10-04-2017, 08:46 AM)greatscott Wrote: I'll go find Johns Manville foam backerboard to use. As for the blue tub, my mom wanted me to rip it out but I told her it could be reglazed to make it white. She was/is tired of the blue.
Check the prices of the foam board and Kerdi if you are on a budget. Many times they price the foam board by each but you have to order 12 at a time or so many sq. ft. Roly
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(10-04-2017, 08:46 AM)greatscott Wrote: I'll go find Johns Manville foam backerboard to use. As for the blue tub, my mom wanted me to rip it out but I told her it could be reglazed to make it white. She was/is tired of the blue.
Nicole Curtis, the hot looking "Rehab Addict" in the HGTV series said in one episode that when she re-glazed a tub herself it lasted almost 5 years; but the professionally re-glazed tub was good for 15 or more years. I recall she said it cost about $250.00.
I was guessing for the $300.00 number.
I'm planning on not using the caulking between the tile and the tub until AFTER I have the tub re-glazed. That will guarantee no telltale blue line between the caulk and the tub.
Tell us how the foam panel works. I have not gotten to that yet. I would loath to start cutting cement board indoors in the winter.
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(10-04-2017, 03:06 PM)Cooler Wrote: Nicole Curtis, the hot looking "Rehab Addict" in the HGTV series said in one episode that when she re-glazed a tub herself it lasted almost 5 years; but the professionally re-glazed tub was good for 15 or more years. I recall she said it cost about $250.00.
I was guessing for the $300.00 number.
I'm planning on not using the caulking between the tile and the tub until AFTER I have the tub re-glazed. That will guarantee no telltale blue line between the caulk and the tub.
Tell us how the foam panel works. I have not gotten to that yet. I would loath to start cutting cement board indoors in the winter.
We had a tub reglazed and it barely lasted 1 year...I would keep an eye out for a replacement
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I wonder if you can put electric radiant heat on the wall. With a timer it could provide the warmth without the extra thickness.
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10-08-2017, 07:35 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-08-2017, 07:37 AM by Snipe Hunter.)
If I had that much demo done, I'd just replace the tub and associated plumbing while it's all open.
Personally, I like working with cement board over hardi-backer. I think it's easier. Maybe a little more messy but easier to cut.
If you do cement backerboard, make sure you buy the right screws. The wrong coating will play havoc under the tiles and discolor and ruin thinset and grout.
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(10-08-2017, 07:35 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: If I had that much demo done, I'd just replace the tub and associated plumbing while it's all open.
Personally, I like working with cement board over hardi-backer. I think it's easier. Maybe a little more messy but easier to cut.
If you do cement backerboard, make sure you buy the right screws. The wrong coating will play havoc under the tiles and discolor and ruin thinset and grout.
How do you cut the cement board?
Is anyone using these shears?
https://www.amazon.com/PacTool-Internati...ent+shears
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I just use a circular saw. And a dust mask, a good one.
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