galvanized nails

[EricU]

What I'd like to find are hot dipped galvanized nails for nail guns. All I see are the electroplated ones.

Huh, I thought the ones I bought were dipped because the finish is rather thick.  Guess I better go look.

[Cooler]

The nails for a nail gun are (from what I've seen) made from pre-galvanized wire.  Pre-galvanized wire is typically hot dipped, but with a much thinner coating.  Typically it is 0.0003" to 0.0005" (three to five tenths of a thousandth of an inch).  If you need the extra corrosion resistance use stainless steel.

I used stainless steel narrow crown staples for my cedar shingles.

[kencombs]

You do have to use nails for the Simpson Strong Tie brackets on the joists.  Screws are a better choice for laying deck boards over the joists, but are not acceptable for use in applications where there are shear forces (as opposed to tensile--pull out forces).  Some building codes recognize this and mandate nails.

This from the Family Handyman Magazine:

What kind of nails to use with joist hangers?

For interior framing, that means using only the thicker 10d, 12d or 16d common nails (rather than skinnier sinker nails) to fasten a joist hanger's face flange to wall ledgers, headers and beams. Outdoors use 16d double-dipped galvanized nails (orstainless steel when called for) for installing hangers.

I think Family Handyman is wrong.  Only the special nails sold to use with hangers are approved.  They are hot dip galvanized, 1.5" long and heavy gauge.
Or you can use the special simpson structural screws.

Local inspector caused a crew to pull all the unapproved nails in a framing job a year or so ago.  They used a mix of box, common and roofing!

Palm nailer is by far the easiest/fasted way to do this.

[Cooler]

I think Family Handyman is wrong.  Only the special nails sold to use with hangers are approved.  They are hot dip galvanized, 1.5" long and heavy gauge.
Or you can use the special simpson structural screws.

Local inspector caused a crew to pull all the unapproved nails in a framing job a year or so ago.  They used a mix of box, common and roofing!

Palm nailer is by far the easiest/fasted way to do this.

When I first moved into my house the 60 year old Douglas Fir decking was failing and the previous owners had a room addition built right over the old deck.  I hired a contractor to replace four of the worst 2" x 8" under-structure.  He re-used the old hanger joists which were pretty rusted and used zinc plated drywall screws to remount them.  

I ended up replacing the joist hangers and screws with heavy galvanized nails.  

I ended up "repairing" the old deck over the following three years, eventually replacing all the Douglas fir with P/T lumber except for a 6 foot run of the ledger board that was under the room addition.  I was afraid what would happen during the time the ledger board was being replaced.  I did add several bolts to the old board.

The old deck was grand-fathered in, but a new one could not be built in its place due to the steep angle of the slope beneath the deck.  

Note:  The contractor was on the list of "vetted" contractors used to install Lowes products.  I think that they don't vet them too carefully.

[MKepke]

I think Family Handyman is wrong.  Only the special nails sold to use with hangers are approved.  They are hot dip galvanized, 1.5" long and heavy gauge.
Or you can use the special simpson structural screws.

Local inspector caused a crew to pull all the unapproved nails in a framing job a year or so ago.  They used a mix of box, common and roofing!

Palm nailer is by far the easiest/fasted way to do this.

No, Family Handyman is not wrong, standard nails (common, sinkers, Ardox, etc) are allowed for use with hangers and other connectors as specified by the maker.

See for example, the Simpson Installer's guide:
https://p.widencdn.net/gjtbzo/S-C-INSTALL16

-Mark