As I calibrate the incra 1000 HD I just got, I've noticed that as I cut the trailing edge of the stock being cut doesn't cut square unless I push it all the way through the saw blade to go through both the cutting edges. If I stop the cut as soon as the first teeth get through then stop, the cut is not square.... it has a trailing lip. I have tried to show in the pictures. If I push it all the way through to where it passes the saw blade completely then there is a square cut. I hope this makes sense as I've tried to illustrate ir in the pictures. Anyway, any idea what could be going on? I have included a picture of my table saw setup in addition to the miter gauge. I don't know if those two things matter, also I'm using a Freud plywood blade from Home Depot 80 tooth I think.
Thanks for any input you can offer.
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(10-17-2017, 09:15 AM)Scott W Wrote: As I calibrate the incra 1000 HD I just got, I've noticed that as I cut the trailing edge of the stock being cut doesn't cut square unless I push it all the way through the saw blade to go through both the cutting edges. If I stop the cut as soon as the first teeth get through then stop, the cut is not square.... it has a trailing lip. I have tried to show in the pictures. If I push it all the way through to where it passes the saw blade completely then there is a square cut. I hope this makes sense as I've tried to illustrate ir in the pictures. Anyway, any idea what could be going on? I have included a picture of my table saw setup in addition to the miter gauge. I don't know if those two things matter, also I'm using a Freud plywood blade from Home Depot 80 tooth I think.
Thanks for any input you can offer.
10-17-2017, 09:47 AM (This post was last modified: 10-18-2017, 02:30 PM by AHill.
Edit Reason: corrected square to parallel
)
(10-17-2017, 09:39 AM)Scott W Wrote: Yes if I push the stock all the way to the blade I get a square cut.
I don't think your miter slot is parallel to the blade. It doesn't look square in your pic, either. If your blade is not parallel to the miter slot, either the forward part of the blade or the back part of the blade will be closer to the piece you're cutting. Pushing your piece all the way through allows the closest part of the blade to "square" things up.
10-17-2017, 11:32 AM (This post was last modified: 10-17-2017, 11:34 AM by JGrout.)
A simple way to determine if the cuts are not square is to take a board about 12-18 long crosscut it in half using your miter gauge the flipping one side over so the lead edge is against the fence and the other as you cut it. butt them together and note the gap if any.
if the miter gauge is truly perpendicular, then you need to get another piece about the same length and drive a $.05 flat head brass screw in the end of the piece. Then butt the piece against the fence and a fully raised saw blade tooth and clamp it to the miter gauge with it just touching the outer tip of the tooth closest to the front of the blade. Mark the tooth rotate it to the back, move the miter and clamped stick to the back . If the screw stops you from going all the way back your miter slot is pinching at the back. If you move and the distance is greater at the back the miter is loose and needs to be adjusted to rotate the top toward the blade. The adjustments based on your pics are going to take some effort as the saw carriage is bolted to the top it appears and not to the saw base They make an adjustment system for this style saw you can buy to take some of the guess work out of the adjustments
Joe
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Joe is giving a good answer if in fact you are out of square. Lemme make sure I understand, if you stop cutting as soon as the first teeth project through the end you feel it isn't square, but if you push all the way through the cut it ends up being flush, and square?
If so I would love to see a close up picture of your saw blade teeth. I'm betting the difference you are seeing is teeth heading one way are getting through, but teeth going the other way haven't yet, but when you finish the cut all teeth have exited, and trued up the end of the board. That would be an ATB, or alternate tooth bevel. If I am correct I have to wonder with what, and how are you measuring a partially cut piece of wood? Also is a microscope involved? I can't tell much from the pics, so it may be way out of square, or microscopically?
(10-17-2017, 09:47 AM)AHill Wrote: I don't think your miter slot is square to the blade. It doesn't look square in your pic, either. If your blade is not square to the miter slot, either the forward part of the blade or the back part of the blade will be closer to the piece you're cutting. Pushing your piece all the way through allows the closest part of the blade to "square" things up.
Not trying to nit-pick, just clarify. The miter slot needs to be parallel to the blade. The miter gauge needs to be square to the miter slot and therefor the blade to make a perfect 90*. If your cut is only square if you continue cutting past the back of the blade; the back of the blade is closer to the slot than the front. If you use the slot on the other side of the blade the front will be closer and the off cut won't be square. Either way it should be corrected.
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(10-17-2017, 09:42 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Not trying to nit-pick, just clarify. The miter slot needs to be parallel to the blade. The miter gauge needs to be square to the miter slot and therefor the blade to make a perfect 90*. If your cut is only square if you continue cutting past the back of the blade; the back of the blade is closer to the slot than the front. If you use the slot on the other side of the blade the front will be closer and the off cut won't be square. Either way it should be corrected.
Thanks for catching my mistake. I've corrected my entry. I did mean parallel to the blade, not square as I had stated. If the miter fence was not square to the blade, you'd get a straight cut, but not at a 90 deg angle.
(10-17-2017, 09:39 AM)Scott W Wrote: Yes if I push the stock all the way to the blade I get a square cut.
I am also thinking there is some danger there with kick back but anyone can correct me.
I would check square with everything first and that the blade is square from front to back as well. The front of the blade could be one length and the back could be .050 off or vise versa
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