cutting flooring under toe kick

[ez-duzit]

Really?  Have you ever done it?  It was a complete bust when I tried.  The half moon blade (I know, you would never think of using one for that job, but I did.) teeth blind in a couple of inches.  I tried a straight bi-metal coarse tooth blade, too.  Maybe it cut 6 inches or so, slowly and with difficulty, before the teeth lost their edge and was done.  And I did that out along a wall where I could get the tool close.  There's no way to easily hold it under a toe tick.  Or control  the depth of cut.  Assuming it did cut.

John

John--you make a simple job sound impossible because you chose the wrong blade and gave up too easily. The oscillating multi-tool fits under the toe kick with the blade installed at an angle and the tool resting on the floor then establishes the depth of cut. Do give the right blades another try. The tool you cobbled together looks potentially rather dangerous, like it would be easy to have it get away from you.

[jteneyck]

I assume that there is a screw head at the end of the mandrel that prevents the saw blade from binding against the toe kick.  And the overhand and the floor act as "guards" against getting your hands chewed up.  

I wonder if the thing ever wants to run away from you when you start up and how you deal with that.  It is the only issue I see.  I have a 3-1/2" plunge circular saw that will grab and kick back if I'm not careful.  I used it to cut openings for the soffit vents under the vinyl soffit material.  I figure if that will kick back then probably so will this gadget.

No, no screw.  It doesn't seem to want to grab into the toe kick.  You are right about the toe kick overhang and the floor acting like guards.  As long as you keep both hands on the drill motor it would be hard to get hurt.  It definitely wants to run away from you as you start to plunge down at the start of a cut.  That's why you need to use both hands and cut into the rotation of the blade, just like you would in most situations with a handheld router.  Once you get a cut started a few inches it stops wanting to run the wrong way.  A finer tooth blade would have less tendency to grab and run, but after the complete failure of the multitool with the fine teeth on those blades (even the coarse tooth ones) I bought the blade with the largest teeth.  In any case, I think you really want a carbide tipped blade so they will survive hitting a few staples or nails as I did.   

JOhn

[jteneyck]

John--you make a simple job sound impossible because you chose the wrong blade and gave up too easily. The oscillating multi-tool fits under the toe kick with the blade installed at an angle and the tool resting on the floor then establishes the depth of cut. Do give the right blades another try. The tool you cobbled together looks potentially rather dangerous, like it would be easy to have it get away from you.

Please show a picture of or a link to the blade you are talking about.  I'm always willing to learn. 

Whatever someone builds is always dangerous in the eyes of others who have never used it.  I'm just as guilty of taking that position.  Didn't seem dangerous to me but I'm not recommending you try it, only showing what I did to solve the problem.  

John

[ez-duzit]

The blades I use are like # S800-1005B, but often are wider at the toothed area.
http://www.multisawblades.com/catalogue/...lades.html

[Cooler]

Woodcraft sells a 50 tooth x 2" solid carbide blade.  Those 50 teeth are much finer than the 100 tooth blade I have on my miter saw.  It should cut very fine, and the small diameter will put less burden on your drill.  But this may be too small to hold the drill level.  In a 3½" blade the finest I've found is 24 teeth which would be equivalent to a 69 tooth 10" saw blade, or a 84 tooth 12" blade.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/tungs...2-diameter

[daddo]

The RotoZipp would be your best choice- it is made for flush cutting using a flush cutting blade, however a grinder can do the same thing. The biggest difference is the arbor size- Rotozip and other blades may not fit the grinder, but you can modify the blades hole to fit any size you need just for jobs like this in a pinch.
 



 First check to make sure the blade you choose is rated for the RPM of the tool your be using. This blade is good for 14,000 rpm.
 This blade is carbide tipped and made to cut wood and other materials.  I'll use a different blade for this example since I don't need this wood blade on my grinder.



 Mount the blade firmly in what ever way you have so it will not move. Lower the right sized bit and find the center point as well as you can. If you are off a little this won't make much difference. I've had no trouble with blades being off 1/16" of center.




 Keeping your drilling position, place a damp thin cotton cloth doubled over, over the hole to be drilled, then start your drilling going slow but deliberate. The cloth will help keep the bit cool and prevent an oblong hole.





You'll have a nice pretty hole. De-burr the hole.




 Use a backup washer for the blade and/or use bushings/washers to get the distance you want the blade to being flush to your cut.




Good fit.




 Now you can cut your wood and occasional nails.


 You'll probably have to sharpen the bit. Blades are hard metal.





 It isn't dangerous or that difficult.  Just use good precautions and if you don't feel safe doing it, don't.  It has worked for me for many years.

   This is my experience and works for me- just thought I'd show you!  

[Stwood_]

The RotoZipp would be your best choice- it is made for flush cutting using a flush cutting blade, however a grinder can do the same thing. The biggest difference is the arbor size- Rotozip and other blades may not fit the grinder, but you can modify the blades hole to fit any size you need just for jobs like this in a pinch.
 



 First check to make sure the blade you choose is rated for the RPM of the tool your be using. This blade is good for 14,000 rpm.
 This blade is carbide tipped and made to cut wood and other materials.  I'll use a different blade for this example since I don't need this wood blade on my grinder.



 Mount the blade firmly in what ever way you have so it will not move. Lower the right sized bit and find the center point as well as you can. If you are off a little this won't make much difference. I've had no trouble with blades being off 1/16" of center.




 Keeping your drilling position, place a damp thin cotton cloth doubled over, over the hole to be drilled, then start your drilling going slow but deliberate. The cloth will help keep the bit cool and prevent an oblong hole.





You'll have a nice pretty hole. De-burr the hole.




 Use a backup washer for the blade and/or use bushings/washers to get the distance you want the blade to being flush to your cut.




Good fit.




 Now you can cut your wood and occasional nails.


 You'll probably have to sharpen the bit. Blades are hard metal.





 It isn't dangerous or that difficult.  Just use good precautions and if you don't feel safe doing it, don't.  It has worked for me for many years.

   This is my experience and works for me- just thought I'd show you!  

Thats all fine, but he needed a blade less than 3" in diameter. And a 4" grinder won't fit under there.