Making faceplate with 1X8 nut
#11
Local store has 1X8 grade 2 nuts....is this grade good enough and will it hold up? Thanks Bill
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#12
I can't imagine any operation on the lather including the dreaded catch that would cause a thread failure.  With that said, the weld from the nut to the plate would be worth paying attention to.
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#13
Bill

When I did my 1 1/4x8tpi I made sure I clamped it very tight in top and tack welded it on two sides first so it would not tilt or tip one way.  I did mine in 1"x10" metal plate
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#14
I'm planning on making the faceplate out of wood.
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#15
(10-20-2017, 04:35 PM)Bill Mains Wrote: I'm planning on making the faceplate out of wood.

I tell you what Bill; I have the whole threading system from Beall and can do threads both male and female from 1/2" to 1 1/4" tpi and when I can start working in my new shop "Posted in Powertools" I can make you some in hardwoods in whatever width I can find.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#16
First faceplate I had I made with a 1X8 nut epoxied into a piece of wood. Worked well. Go for it.

GM
The only tool I have is a lathe.  Everything else is an accessory.
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#17
Photo 
(10-20-2017, 04:35 PM)Bill Mains Wrote: I'm planning on making the faceplate out of wood.

That's what I do (lower right fit's in the live center so it's 3/4-10)
[Image: GwNkeV1CkTT62tV-cwTMPD32LAGbMtC2WKX-1_g8...69-h599-no]
Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that's more accident then design.
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#18
Do not bury the nut so deep that you can't get a wrench on it to take it off.

GM
The only tool I have is a lathe.  Everything else is an accessory.
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#19
(10-20-2017, 01:30 PM)Bill Mains Wrote: Local store has 1X8 grade 2 nuts....is this grade good enough and will it hold up? Thanks Bill

      As has already been stated, that nut should be more than sufficient. A grade 8 1" bolt is capable of tremendous loads, something like 100,000 pounds on the low end. What will fail if anything is the connection to the wood. The first time I did this I just pressed the nut in the hole nice and snug, then filled the gaps with epoxy. This was nowhere near sufficient and they all failed the first or second time I used them. The most success I've had is when I covered one side of the nut with blue tape to keep epoxy out, filled the hole half way with epoxy, THEN pressed the nut in. None of those have failed since.

      I respectfully disagree with leaving enough of the nut clear for a wrench. I think you would have to leave too much out to ever get a 1" wrench on it. If you're locked up you can use an oil filter strap or drill a hole in the side of your chuck for a steel bar to give you some leverage. You do want to make sure the nut is proud of the wood at least a small amount. If it bottoms out on the wood then you'll just tear it out when you chuck it up.
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#20
That will work. After I posted, that thought came to me.
Don't remember what I did - after all, it was 35 years ago when I made mine...
Many here have heard this story, but here it is again.
My first sharpening sqation was made from an old 50cycle double-shaft washing machine motor. Made a tool rest out of wood. I have since graduated to bigger and better, but still have that motor with buffing wheels on each end.

GM
The only tool I have is a lathe.  Everything else is an accessory.
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